If you have a lazy morning or afternoon to spare and a
friend to go along, Lweibdeh is the perfect neighborhood for a sidewalk stroll.
Along the way, you can pop into its many quaint eateries, to grab a bite to eat
— or several.
اضافة اعلان
This was exactly how I spent one recent morning, when the
weather was not too chilly to spend some time walking around outside. For a
change, instead of dining in one place, I decided to touch base at all my
favorite local spots for a sampler of the neighborhood’s rustic culinary offerings.
Here, I will walk you through my favorite food
establishments of vintage Lweibdeh. For me, these hidden gems bring back
childhood memories, but for anyone — familiar or new to the area — they are
sure to evoke the sweet flavors of old Amman and its charming fare.
Grab a Rumi coffee to start things off right.The first stop on my tour was Rumi café, because coffee is
truly a necessity. I went out on a limb and told the barista to go wild with
the order, even though I usually do not stray from a standard latte. The
friendly barista, Laith, suggested leaving the foam behind and sipping at a
flat white.
I enjoy the dining area at Rumi; the varied outdoor seating
arrangements and tables with built-in heaters give the place a warm, cozy feel.
The crowd also is very diverse, and everyone ambling into the establishment
seems to have a different objective: some pull out laptops and get to work,
some catch up with friends, and some pop in for a quick caffeine charge-up.
Munch on a sandwich at Al-Thawak.After my flat white, I set out from Rumi and made my way to Al-Thawak.
It is difficult to categorize the establishment, but the best way of explaining
it is as a sandwich place that draws inspiration from saj, with an affordable
menu. The place is also famous for an Eiran
yogurt drink that is full of probiotics and helps with digestion.
I went for a lighter
sandwich — knowing that I had to save room for more — and ordered a sausage,
mortadella, and cheese sandwich. Other favorites of mine are the zinger and the
cordon blue. I truly enjoy Al-Thawak’s bread and the extra touch of pressing
the sandwiches before serving them. Then, there is the pure pleasure of sitting
on a bench outside the shop, munching away one bite at a time, and people-watching
all the while.
Time for a Mtabaa from
Ras Beirut.Moving on to the next
stop: Ras Beirut. I have memories of this old establishment from when my father
used to take me there as a child. Their calzone — or as they call it, “Mtabaa” —
baked in a brick oven, is comfort food at its finest. There is no better
feeling than watching the dough slowly cook in the brick oven while your
stomach is growling, knowing that that hungry ache will soon be satisfied in
the most delicious way.
Ras Beirut has so many
types of Mtabaa that I usually end up ordering a few and sharing them with
friends. This time, though, I kept my selection to “turkey”, and watched in
satisfaction as the employees drizzled mayonnaise and ketchup on top. If anyone
asks if you want extra condiments, the answer should always be “yes”.
Again, I relaxed on a
sidewalk bench and slowly enjoyed the tasty, warm Mtabaa, with streams of mayo
oozing from every bite. People-watching was also part of this experience — it
would be hard to live in Amman without the pleasurable pastime, which seems to
be embedded in our DNA.
Top it all off with
a Fairuz classic: a French pastry.Walking back in the
direction of Rumi, I knew I had to make a final stop at one of the first pastry
shops in Jordan: Fairuz. The recipes for most of their pastries have stayed the
same through the years, and the prices are very affordable.
Fairuz’ eclairs and
Millefeuille are on another level. Perhaps especially so for me because the
flavors and textures are linked to childhood memories. Although it is a
well-established Amman eatery, Fairuz is far from dated. Recently, the place
has been getting more and more attention, to the point where it has become a
hot trend.
I always say that
dessert goes straight to the heart, and my heart was craving an éclair. Even though my friend was full after all the
food we had consumed, as soon as I held that glittering pastry, she seemed to
catch my excitement and I knew I had to share. It was a mistake not to get two.
If you are ever in the
vicinity of Lweibdeh and are looking for something to do within a walking
distance, I recommend taking a trek to these four spots. The best time to go is
early on Friday before traffic hits, or on a normal weekday before you become a
responsible person and go to work.
This could be the
perfect plan for a first date: walking around, enjoying the food, and people
watching. But I would leave the extra mayo and ketchup for the third date — it
could make things a little messy.
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