Chef Mamoun Habbaq spent nearly 10
years working as a sushi chef at upscale dining venues that included the
Kempinski Amman and
Sheraton hotel, before another stint at Amman’s fabled Meat
Masters, and eventually co-founded Chef’s House, a small, understated
restaurant squeezed into the Dawoud Complex off Mecca Street in Amman.
اضافة اعلان
Those experiences were what
eventually shaped the menu at
Chef’s House, which hosts a number of Asian,
American, and international dishes, all stacked up next to one another on the
pages of the menu. While, admittedly, variety is not something restaurants are
generally known for doing well, here, it simply works.
(Photos: Jason Ruffin/Jordan News)
The vegetable spring rolls have a
fresh crunch that reminded me of homemade ones I’ve tried in the
US, and the
brisket was so tender it was difficult to pick up with a fork, but a bit more
on that later.
Chef Mamoun credited his staff for
being able to maintain quality across a range of dishes. One of his chefs has
been with him for more than 10 years, and another is not far behind. He also
has experience working in Qatar, Saudi Arabia, and South Africa.
(Photos: Jason Ruffin/Jordan News)
“Here in Amman, if you go anywhere,
(at) any restaurant you will find staff turnover. This will destroy the
quality, it will destroy the reputation, … it will destroy the business, and it
will destroy the place,” Chef Mamoun said.
That lack of turnover has paid off,
not only is the food of quality, but the service feels more akin to an upscale
restaurant.
Not wanting to overdo it, but still
wanting to try a range of options, I’m sure I committed some kind of cardinal
sin when I ordered sushi and brisket in the same sitting. Many chefs spend
years, even decades, learning and mastering the subtleties of both sushi and
brisket. And spring rolls are one of those dishes that for whatever reason usually
only taste right when made at home.
(Photos: Jason Ruffin/Jordan News)
However, I did have some sense. I
began with the sushi and spring rolls while my palate was still fresh. To
start, most sushi restaurants in Amman, in my experience, seem to taste largely
similar at a certain level. Simply put, the quality plateaus at a certain
point. But I did notice something different about Chef’s House — the rice. It
was pleasantly sticky, as sushi rice should be, without losing its texture and
feeling too clumpy.
The different rolls also offered a
welcome mix of flavors and textures I was not used to when it comes to sushi in
Amman. I found myself actively switching between the rolls to savor each one,
whether sweet, salty, crunchy, or soft.
Next were the spring rolls. Now, if
you have never had homemade spring rolls, you are missing out. It always amazes
me when I walk into a restaurant specializing in Asian cuisine, and they can’t
capture that flavor and crunch, because it is a relatively simple dish; it just
requires care. Chef’s House captured it perfectly.
The shell offered a perfect crunch
that slowly tapers off as you bite into the vegetables. The portion was also
generous for an appetizer.
Lastly, came the brisket, which was
served with a side of mashed potatoes and mac and cheese. The mashed potatoes
were basically a mix of butter and potatoes, as all great things should be. The
dish was creamy and overall a very solid choice to accompany the brisket.
The mac and cheese was also
extremely satisfying. Again, not difficult to make, but easy to mess up. Chef’s
House’s version used more than one type of cheese and the pasta was perfectly
cooked.
The dish I was most skeptical about was
the brisket. Southern-style BBQ is not something I take lightly, and many of
the places I have tried in Amman have left me less than enthused. But Chef
Mamoun seemed to get it. While the brisket did lack some char around the edges,
(if it were up to me, I would finish off cooking every meal by throwing it into
an open campfire), it was extraordinarily tender.
(Photos: Jason Ruffin/Jordan News)
Brisket is a tough cut, so when I have
trouble even picking it up with a fork, I know something is right with the
world. The brisket generously soaked up the BBQ sauce, which was on the sweeter
side and paired well with the mashed potatoes, and in that moment the only
thing I was missing was a slice of bread to finish it off.
While
the menu displays a surprising amount of range, it delivers on both quality and
price, being extremely affordable, which looking back, should not have come as
a surprise considering the chef’s decades of experience in his field.
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