There are unspoken expectations the digital realm tends to
place on
recipes: They should photograph beautifully. They should have the mass
appeal to go viral. And they should be written by a charismatic cook with a
huge
Instagram following and an adorable dog.
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Cookpad, a recipe-sharing website and app, flouts all that.
Its recipes prioritize practicality and are mostly created by amateur home
cooks. The photos are unpolished. The layout is simple.
Yet Cookpad has been a global success — from
Japan, where it
was founded nearly a quarter-century ago, to India, Algeria and Spain. It is
one of the largest cooking platforms in the world, reporting around 100 million
visitors each month, from 76 countries. (By comparison, Allrecipes, another
popular recipe platform, says it has 125 million average monthly visitors to
its site from more than 200 countries.)
Where Cookpad hasn’t caught on big is the United States,
where it was introduced in 2013. This isn’t surprising. Against the backdrop of
an American food media that is predominantly white, aspirational and
celebrity-driven, Cookpad treats cooking as utility instead of entertainment,
and champions home cooks over influencers. Rather than trying to please
everybody, the recipes are diverse and often hyper-regional.
Still, for those same reasons, Cookpad has built a small but
devoted audience here among those who feel overlooked by other American cooking
websites — most notably, immigrants and their families.
“I haven’t really gone to other websites because I am so
satisfied with Cookpad,” said Mitsuko Atkinson, a stay-at-home mother in Lucas,
Texas, who visits the site mainly for its variety of Japanese recipes.
She wants her three young children to become familiar with
the flavors she grew up eating in the suburbs of Tokyo; Cookpad recipes, she
said, are the kind you would find in a Japanese home.
Atkinson, 45, likes the site’s simple design and the
step-by-step photos that accompany most recipes. That many of the images are
shot on phones makes the food feel accessible. While cookbooks typically
provide only one take on a recipe, Cookpad offers scores of options. And
Atkinson loves reading other users’ commentary on recipes — what Cookpad calls
tsukurepo. She recently followed one suggestion to turn up the spice in an
eggplant and pork miso rice bowl.
Vishali Passi, who lives in Castro Valley, California, and
grew up in Punjab, India, learned about Cookpad from a Facebook advertisement
two years ago and immediately fell for its trove of regional Indian dishes,
like dal muthiya and khandvi. She soon started posting her own recipes.
“If you see Instagram posts and the YouTube channels, they
make the common dishes,” like the popular TikTok tortilla wrap, said Passi, 34,
who runs a limousine company with her husband, Vikram. “I never see anything
unique,” and although the food looks lovely, the recipes don’t always work.
On Cookpad, contributors are usually just cooking for
themselves, rather than trying to accrue enormous followings or accommodate
other people’s preferences. Passi has even made some virtual friendships on
Cookpad, mostly with others in the Indian diaspora.
Cookpad was born in 1997, in the thick of the dot-com boom.
Its founder, Aki Sano, who had just completed his degree in neural computing at
Keio University in Tokyo while selling produce for local farmers on the side,
foresaw that the web was the next frontier for documenting and sharing recipes.
“The question was how to make cooking fun, and not a chore,”
said Sano, who is now 47.
He wanted the platform to be as interactive as possible:
Users could upload their recipes; search for others’ by ingredient, cuisine or
dish; and provide feedback. Recipes were vetted to ensure the steps made sense,
and didn’t include offensive content or spam. Within five years, Cookpad had
amassed 1 million users.
Rimpei Iwata, Cookpad’s president and chief executive,
attributes its early success to Japanese women. In that country’s highly
gendered society, many women still carry the burden of preparing meals, even as
they join the workforce in greater numbers. Today, the company says, 80 percent
to 90 percent of Japanese women in their 20s and 30s are Cookpad users.
In 2004, Sano introduced a premium service for 270 yen (then
about $2.50) a month that experimented with allowing users to sort recipes by
popularity, hide advertisements and bookmark dishes. Seven years later, the
company went public on the Tokyo Stock Exchange. It is now valued at 33 billion
yen (about $315 million) and says its sites draw around 800 million page views
each month. In Japan, the company is testing an online grocery shopping service
called CookpadMart and a video platform, CookpadTV.
In 2013, Cookpad began developing sites for and building
large audiences in other parts of Asia, as well as Africa, South America and
Europe, eventually establishing a global headquarters in Bristol, England. But
its US efforts — a mix of translating Japanese recipes into English and trying
to grow a user base organically — have been less successful.
“America is a really hard region when it comes to cooking,”
Sano said. “Less people cook.”
The nation ranked close to the bottom in a 2020 survey that
Cookpad conducted with analytics company Gallup to gauge the average number of
meals eaten at home, by country.
Sano attributed this to Americans’ affinity for frozen meals
and takeout, along with watching food television, which he said can become a
substitute for actual cooking. Cookpad succeeds in countries where cooking is
more of a necessity than a diversion, Sano said.
As a result, the company hasn’t invested much in its US
site. The user interface is even simpler than its Japanese counterpart, with no
premium subscription and a very basic search tool. In Japan, looking up a
recipe on Google would likely call up several pages of hits from Cookpad, but
the site barely comes up in recipe searches in the United States.
When the pandemic shutdowns began, Cookpad, like most online
cooking platforms, experienced tremendous growth; the number of recipes in its
database doubled in 2020, to 8 million. But Americans are still only a small
percentage of users. (The company would not provide a figure.)
The United States “is a big country,” said Serkan Toto, a
mobile and game industry analyst in Tokyo, with six time zones, “more than one
language and a lot of cultural differences.” It would take millions of dollars’
worth of marketing, he said, to make a meaningful impact.
Yet it’s precisely this diversity that has won Cookpad a
loyal following in America. Although the company does not have demographic data
on its US audience, Sano said many of those users are immigrants — often from
countries where Cookpad is popular.
For them, Cookpad can be a lifeline. Areej Ismail, a
Lebanese American stay-at-home mother who lives in the Pittsburgh area, uses
the Arabic-language version to find and publish recipes from her home village,
Baissour. She can’t find those dishes — like hreeseh, a dish of wheat berries
and lamb cooked for several hours — by doing a Google search.
“I only find them on Cookpad,” said Ismail, 33. “I don’t
write down recipes anymore on paper. I think that Cookpad is enough.”
Consuelo Rodriguez, 54, a house cleaner in Lodi, California,
who is studying for her high school equivalency diploma, said Cookpad “is like
my home,” a place where she can share her family recipes from Jalisco, Mexico —
her father’s barbacoa, her mother’s gorditas rellenas. She has posted more than
300 recipes on Cookpad and loves to read the positive comments she receives.
“It is a marvelous feeling,” like therapy, Rodriguez said.
Cookpad has inspired her to want to publish a cookbook
someday.
For Ken Lord, a data scientist in Centennial, Colorado, the
charm of Cookpad is not just the recipes, but how supportive users are.
“You will see a recipe that is not great, and people
offering constructive advice,” he said.
Cookpad also “seems to encourage everybody to retain their
own original culture,” said Lord, 41. It doesn’t demand that food be impeccably
presented or homogenized to have appeal.
“It sort of celebrates that difference.”
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