Of all the edible heralds of
spring, rhubarb may be
the rosiest — and the most sour. After a cold, gray winter, piles of the
lipstick-red stalks at the farmers’ market practically glow, tempting even
ambivalent cooks to scoop them right up.
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So, what, if in their natural state, the stalks are
astringent enough to make you wince? With minimal effort (and usually, a lot of
sugar), rhubarb’s fierceness can be coaxed into a purr.
This recipe, however, leans into
rhubarb’s savory side,
tempering its cranky acidity with a little bit of honey and a good dose of
schmaltz, courtesy of roasting chicken. The whole dish is sheet pan-simple, yet
completely unlike most other roast chicken recipes, pinker, tangier and more
complex.
For the prettiest color, reach for the reddest rhubarb
stalks you can find. This won’t matter one bit in terms of flavor — green
rhubarb is not inherently less tasty than red — but it does make the dish a lot
more vivid.
To that same sheet pan, I added red onions, which everyone
knows are really purple. They collapse into violet heaps among the nuggets of
rhubarb and golden-skinned chicken, lending sweetness as well as depth.
As usual when I’m in the kitchen, I opted for dark meat, a
mix of bone-in thighs and drumsticks. I always prefer bone-in chicken because
the bones give the meat a richer flavor when the marrow seeps out while
roasting. But even more to the point, I like to gnaw on the cartilage and
nibble the skin, both impossible with boneless, skinless pieces.
If you prefer white meat, you can also substitute bone-in,
skin-on breasts. Just start checking them 10 minutes earlier since white meat
takes less time to cook than dark meat.
After pulling the sheet pan from the oven, give everything a
big stir to incorporate the browned bits and chicken juices stuck to the pan.
To me, this is the tastiest part of any sheet-pan chicken recipe, and
especially here, seasoned with honey-roasted rhubarb, thyme, and a little
coriander.
Then, before serving, make sure to sample a piece of
rhubarb. If you pucker and squint, drizzle everything with a bit more honey.
I like to serve this with a crackly baguette and maybe some steamed
and buttered asparagus on the side. After all, springtime stalks taste better
in pairs.
This easy yet robust dish celebrates rhubarb’s savory side.
Here, a bit of honey, some sliced sweet red onion and the rich juices of
roasted
chicken thighs and drumsticks temper its tartness. Serve this dish with
a crackly baguette or some rice to catch the tangy sauce at the bottom of the
pan. It’s the best part.
Instructions:
> Step 1: Heat oven to 220 degrees Celsius and line
sheet pan with parchment paper. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season
all over with coriander, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.
> Step 2: Place onion wedges on the prepared sheet
pan and lightly season with more salt and pepper. Add chicken and thyme sprigs
to the pan and drizzle 3 tablespoons oil over everything. Toss until well
coated, then spread chicken and onions in a single layer. Roast for 10 minutes.
> Step 3: While the chicken is in the oven, combine
rhubarb and 3 tablespoons honey in a medium bowl. Lightly drizzle with oil, add
a pinch of salt and pepper, and toss until rhubarb is well coated.
> Step 4: Remove chicken from oven and carefully
spoon rhubarb onto the hot pan around the onions and chicken. Continue roasting
until the chicken is cooked through, and the rhubarb and onion are tender and
caramelized, 25 to 35 minutes longer, tossing the rhubarb and onions (not the
chicken) once about halfway through.
> Step 5: Stir the rhubarb and onions very well,
making sure to incorporate all the browned bits and chicken juices from the
bottom of the pan (this is the tastiest part). Then sample a piece of rhubarb.
If it’s very tart, drizzle with a little more honey, tossing well. Serve
chicken with rhubarb-onion mixture garnished with herbs.
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