Matthew Beverley, an electrical engineer in
Mount Pearl, Newfoundland, is
known to keep a bag of Haribo gummy candy on his bedside table. There is
usually a bag or two on his desk at work. Then there’s the filled plastic bin
in his home office, not to mention the scattered loosies.
اضافة اعلان
Some might say this is a problem. He calls it a
collection.
It took more than four months during the pandemic
for Beverley, 40, to amass his Haribo hoard, which peaked at nearly 120
distinct varieties. Among his most prized are the eccentric Super Gurken gummy
pickles and a special 100th-anniversary packet of Haribo’s Goldbears, which he
calls “a stone-cold classic.”
A century after they were invented by Haribo in
Bonn,
Germany, gummy bears remain a sweet, squishy source of joy. But the world
of gummies has expanded far beyond that company, into countless corners of
modern life.
There are gummy versions of sushi and of
interlocking blocks that work like Legos. Gummies have wiggled their way into
the wellness industry via gummy supplements, an extension of the gummy vitamins
that became popular in the 1990s. These are not to be confused with the
so-called “better-for-you” gummies that are marketed as candy, but made with
added fiber, less sugar, or pectin instead of animal-based gelatin.
Others are boozy gummies, containing small shots of
cocktails. Further enhancing the party mood are gummy-inspired kitsch-like
strings of bear-shaped lights and inflatable pool floats. Social media
platforms are rife with taste tests, DIY recipes, and even a catalog of catchy
theme songs.
“Gummies are the most popular kind of candy,” said
Marcia Mogelonsky, a director of insight at the marketing analysis firm
Mintel Food & Drink. “It’s not surprising that they are turning up everywhere
else. They have a certain resonance. It’s one of those nostalgic things.”
It’s also probably a far cry from what candy maker
Hans Riegel had in mind in 1922, when he adapted a recipe for fruit-flavored
pastilles to create the first gummy bear (or Gummibär, German for “rubber
bear”) for his nascent sweets company, Haribo. The densely chewy, gelatin-based
gummies were modeled after real-life dancing bears, a form of entertainment at
the time, and later rebranded as Goldbears.
But gummy candy did not take off in the US until the
1980s.
In 1981, the Herman Goelitz Candy Co. (later renamed
Jelly Belly) introduced the first American-made gummy bear. A year later, Haribo
set up its first distribution center in the
US. The Indiana-based company
Albanese unleashed its famously soft bears in 1983 and soon, gummies abandoned
the bear altogether — cue Trolli’s writhing worms and the Sour Patch Kids from
Mondelez.
In 1985, the medieval-themed adventures of the Gummi
family in Disney’s animated series “Adventures of the Gummi Bears” solidified
the candy in the American pop-culture canon — as the theme song put it,
“bouncing here and there, and everywhere.”
The pandemic has been a boon for candy makers, as
customers turn to the comfort of an inexpensive sugar rush. Sales of chewy
candy in the US, which includes gummies, hit $4.6 billion in 2021, a nearly 15
percent increase from the previous year, according to the market research
company IRI. The nation also led the world in gummy sales, followed by
China and Germany, according to data from Euromonitor.
Gummy fandom is decidedly cross-cultural. And even
within the US, there are an array of regional adaptations.
Ashley Garza recalls
her teenage years in the
Rio Grande Valley in Texas, when she ate commercial
gummy bears in raspas, a shaved-ice dessert, and as dulces enchilados, a
Mexican American snack of chamoy- and chile-coated candies. “When I was in high
school, people were selling little Ziploc bags of gummy bears with chamoy,” she
said.
Garza, 30, was a grocery clerk at the start of the
pandemic, but facing mounting bills, she started a candy company called Texas
Chile Dulceria with her boyfriend, Adrian Martinez, 28. He hand-mixes the
candy, which includes sweet bears and mouth-puckering sour belts. Each batch
starts with a generous drizzle of chamoy, followed by a liberal shower of tart
chile seasoning.
Elizabeth Schmitt, 37, a self-professed gummy
fanatic, owns the candy company Ruby Bond, in
Atlanta. “Gummy candy is so
nostalgic,” she said. “It reminds me of simpler times.’
She layers various shapes onto acrylic trays to make
candy “charcuterie.” In one of her most popular arrangements, bears are
squished alongside an ombré rainbow of stars, butterflies, and other springy
creatures.
She has an abundance of choices: oozy jelly-filled
shapes, super-sour chews, and foamy, marshmallowy creations. She leans toward
the softer varieties with vivid colors.
“Not all gummy candies are created equal,” she said.
Novelty candy shops across the US and online are
treasure troves for more extreme takes, from one bear that weighs in at about 5
pounds to a scorchingly spicy counterpart that reaches 9 million units on the
Scoville scale.
Jessica Stevenson, 34, owns a candy shop called
Hello, Sweets with her husband, Tyler, in Tonawanda, New York. The couple
sometimes post videos of their favorite candy to social media, spurring intense
debates in the comments section over issues like the merits of a rigorous chew
versus a supple one.
“Everybody has very strong opinions about candy,”
Stevenson said
TikTok is a rabbit hole of gummy candy ephemera. The
platform’s subculture known as Candytok is full of videos in which gummies are
poured into a container on an endless loop. One such video that Stevenson
posted to her store’s account in 2021 shows a pile of brightly colored bears
noisily tumbling into a metal bowl in a gleaming heap. As of Monday, it had
more than 660,000 views.
TikTok’s audience skews young, a reminder that gummy
bears were originally fashioned to appeal to children. Adults, Stevenson said,
tend to be pickier and a little more obsessive about their candy.
The physical qualities of gummy candies — their
tenderness and the soothing sound as they are chewed — might serve as a cushion
for the hard-edged realities of adult life.
Beverley, the collector in Newfoundland, has finally
started to dip into his stash. Unlike sharing his music and movie collections
with friends, he said, opening a bag of candy is more likely to elicit a smile.
He likes to dole out bags of Goldbears or Sour Cherries to neighbors,
co-workers — or anyone, really.
“There’s a joy in collecting it,” he said, “and there’s also
a joy in sharing it.”
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