Often heard as a Christmas carol, Christina
Rossetti’s poem “In the Bleak Midwinter” imagines the Nativity scene and closes
with the question of what to bring as an offering.
اضافة اعلان
She first answers, “If I were a shepherd, I would bring a
lamb,” and concludes by offering her heart. Both gifts — a prized feast and
love — make for the ideal holiday meal no matter the celebration.
A challenge for the home cook is that most dinner party main
dishes take time away from family and friends. Turkeys, hams, and rib roasts
require hours in the oven and sometimes demand basting or glazing. But these
two delicious dishes, a miso-cream salmon and beef tenderloin with horseradish
sauce, roast one after the other in under an hour, to balance the
craving for a
special centerpiece with the desire to chat over cocktails or watch kids play
with their new gifts.
You do not have to prepare both the salmon and the
tenderloin, but together, they feel especially festive and offer an option to
those who do not eat red meat. (For vegetarians, try a stunning gratin). The
tenderloin roasts for less than half an hour; then, to arrive at a juicy
medium-rare doneness, it rests at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes, which
is just the amount of time the salmon takes in the oven to come out silky. All
they need to feel like a full meal are a simple salad and bread, but you can
ask guests to bring side dishes or throw together some effortless ones
yourself.
Even though a whole salmon fillet cut from one side of a
fish is much larger than individual pieces — and looks far more elegant — it
doesn’t take much longer to cook.
Emma Teal Privat, a founder of Salmon Sisters with her
sister, Claire Neaton, in Homer, Alaska, said that it roasts “really quick” and
warns against overcooking to prevent dry salmon. They see an uptick in sales of
whole fillets for the holidays because the cut is “really impressive, looks
great on the table and it’s so easy to just put it in the oven.”
To ensure that salmon stays moist in the
dry heat of the
oven, I slather the fish with crème fraîche, which adds richness without
sliding off the top the way oil and butter do. Shiro miso stirred into the mix
offers a butterscotch savoriness. The same ingredient pairing is warmed into a
creamy sauce, with citrus juice swirled in at the end for fruity acidity.
It is a sauce that could save anything, but it will not have
to rescue the fish if it comes out of the oven at the right time. The best way
to see if salmon is done is to slide a thin-bladed paring knife or metal cake
tester into the thickest part of the fish. It should glide in with only a
little resistance and, when it comes out, it should feel warm, not hot. If you
prefer more precision, you can use a meat thermometer, looking for 50°C for
medium-rare and 50°C for medium.
While you do not need a meat thermometer for the fish, you
definitely do for the beef tenderloin. Cindy Garcia, a butcher who won a gold
medal at an international butchering competition, said that tenderloin is an
expensive cut because there are only two on a cow, each one a muscle that
starts beneath the ribs and runs along the spine down the back. Because cows
stand on all fours, those muscles aren’t used much, yielding supremely
tender meat.
To preserve and highlight that buttery texture, the whole
tenderloin should be roasted so that the outside browns (but does not form a
tough crust), and the center ends up evenly rosy. With a good meat thermometer,
you’ll know exactly when you’ve hit the right temperature — 45°C to 51°C for
medium-rare.
Getting the outside of the tenderloin to brown doesn’t
require searing, which is challenging given the length of the cut and can risk
overcooking. Instead, a combination of soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce and
sugar mixed with butter helps the meat develop color and caramelize in the
oven. It also bolsters the mild flavor of the meat, as does a classic
horseradish sauce.
Because tenderloin is lean, it still tastes great at room
temperature (to put it bluntly, there is no congealing fat). And because salmon
is fatty, it maintains its rich flavor as it cools. So even though these dishes
come together quickly, they can be lingered over on a long evening with those
you love most.
Roasted beef tenderloin.
Roasted
Beef TenderloinBy
Genevieve Ko
A whole
beef tenderloin is a holiday splurge, an ideal party centerpiece that tastes as
good hot as it does at room temperature. It also looks impressive, especially
if it’s evenly rosy through the center and nicely browned on the outside. To
achieve that, a combination of soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce and sugar is
mixed with butter to slather all over the meat. It helps create a caramelized
yet delicate deep-brown crust without the hassle of searing and gives the mild
meat a more complex savory flavor. So does a classic creamy horseradish sauce.
This cut would also be delicious with herby chimichurri or a rich béarnaise and
goes with just about any holiday side dish. An untrimmed beef tenderloin costs
a lot less than one that comes peeled and tied. Follow the tip to prepare it
yourself and use the trimmings to make stock.
Yield:
8 to 12 servings
Total
time: 2 hours, plus trimming and tying, if needed
Ingredients:
1 whole
(2kg) beef tenderloin, peeled (trimmed) and tied (see tip)
2
tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1
tablespoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons
Worcestershire sauce
1
teaspoon granulated sugar
Coarse
sea or kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper
Chopped
parsley, for serving (optional)
Horseradish
sauce, for serving
Preparation:
1. Take
the beef out of the refrigerator an hour before cooking so that it will cook
evenly and not end up overdone on the outside while the center is still cold.
Pat it very dry if it isn’t already.
2. Heat
the oven to 232°C. Line a large sheet pan with foil. Place the beef on the pan.
3. Mix
the butter, soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce and sugar in a small bowl until the
sugar dissolves. Pour the mixture all over the beef, using your hands to spread
it around. Sprinkle the beef generously with salt (about 2 teaspoons) and press
in an even coating of pepper (about 1 teaspoon).
4.
Roast until browned and a meat thermometer inserted in the center registers 48°C
to 51°C degrees for medium-rare, 25 to 30 minutes. (Start checking at 20
minutes to make sure you do not overcook the meat.) Use the foil to lift and
transfer the beef with its juices to a cutting board. Let rest for 15 to 20
minutes. The internal temperature of the meat will rise a few degrees as it
rests.
5.
Transfer the beef to the cutting board, reserving the foil with its juices, and
cut the beef into slices for serving. Arrange on a serving platter and pour
over all of the juices from the foil and cutting board. Sprinkle with parsley,
if you would like, and serve with the horseradish sauce.
Tips:
Beef
tenderloin usually comes “peeled,” which means all of its excess fat and
silverskin have been trimmed and the meat is tied at 2.5cm intervals. You can
ask the person at the meat counter to do it for you if it has not been
prepared, or you can trim and tie it yourself at home. To trim the meat, pull
or slice off all excess fat and gristle, then slice off any silverskin, the
thin, silvery white skin covering the meat. To tie the meat, tuck 10 to 12cm of
the thin, tapered end of the tenderloin under the meat to match the thickness
of the other end of the meat and create an even cylinder. Use kitchen string to
tie the meat at 2.5cm intervals. This will hold the tucked-in end in place and
also help the meat maintain its cylindrical shape while roasting.
Horseradish
SauceBy
Genevieve Ko
A
combination of cream, sour cream and mayonnaise temper the sharp bite of
horseradish in this tangier take on the classic cream sauce. It is especially
delicious with roasted beef tenderloin or prime rib and becomes even more
flavorful after a day or two in the refrigerator. This makes a lot of sauce in
case the roast is especially large and everyone sauces their meat generously.
Any leftover is fantastic in sandwiches or slathered over roasted salmon.
Yield:
About 2 1/4 cups
Total
time: 5 minutes, plus at least 45 minutes’ resting
Ingredients:
1 jar
prepared horseradish, drained well (scant 1 cup)
1/2 cup
heavy cream
1/2 cup
sour cream
1/4 cup
mayonnaise
1
teaspoon granulated sugar
1/2
teaspoon coarse sea or kosher salt
Preparation:
Mix the
horseradish, cream, sour cream, mayonnaise, sugar, and salt in a bowl until
well blended. Let stand until ready to serve, about 45 minutes. Or, cover and
refrigerate for up to three days before serving.
Roasted salmon with miso cream.
Roasted
Salmon with Miso CreamBy
Genevieve Ko
A whole
fillet of salmon cut from one side of a fish looks spectacular but takes only a
little longer to cook than smaller portions. Crème fraîche spread all over the
fish keeps it moist as it roasts and adds a savory richness when a dollop of
miso is stirred into the mix. That same pair is gently warmed into a sauce
that’s finished with tart citrus juice so that it tastes both creamy and light.
This can be served simply with salad and bread or be offered with other
vegetables, like potatoes, asparagus, or Brussels sprouts.
Yield:
8 servings
Total
time: 30 minutes
Ingredients:
1 whole
salmon fillet (skin on or off), patted dry if needed
Coarse
sea or kosher salt
1/4
teaspoon ichimi togarashi or ground cayenne
1 cup
crème fraîche or sour cream
2
tablespoons shiro (white) miso (see tip)
2
teaspoons turbinado or other coarse raw sugar (optional)
2 limes
1
tablespoon yuzu or lime juice
Toasted
white sesame seeds, for sprinkling
Preparation:
1. Heat
the oven to 200°C. Line a large sheet pan with parchment paper or foil.
2.
Place the salmon on the prepared pan skin (or flat) side down at an angle, if
needed, to fit. Sprinkle with salt (about 1 teaspoon) and the togarashi.
3. In a
small saucepan, stir 1/4 cup crème fraîche with 1 tablespoon miso until well
blended. Scrape onto the fish (save the pan without washing it), then spread
the sauce in an even layer. If you like a little sweetness with your salmon, sprinkle
it with the sugar.
4.
Roast the salmon until a thin-bladed paring knife slides through the thickest
part with only a little resistance, 15 to 20 minutes. When you remove the blade
from the fish and touch it, it should feel warm.
5.
While the fish roasts, stir the remaining 3/4 cup crème fraîche and 1
tablespoon miso until smooth in the same saucepan. Set over low heat and warm,
stirring occasionally, until steaming and tiny bubbles form around the edges,
about five minutes. Do not let the mixture boil. Turn the heat to the lowest
setting to keep warm.
6.
Using the parchment or foil, lift the roasted salmon onto a serving platter,
then slide the parchment or foil out from under the fish. Zest the limes all
over the fish, then squeeze 1 tablespoon juice, if using lime juice. Stir the
yuzu or lime juice into the miso cream, then transfer to a serving bowl to
serve alongside the salmon. (Or, if your salmon is skinless, pour the sauce
around the salmon.)
7.
Sprinkle the salmon with sesame seeds. Cut the zested limes into wedges and
serve with the fish.
Tips:
You
also can use red or brown miso, but they are both saltier. If using, you will
want to sprinkle the salmon more lightly with salt.
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