A cooler’s primary summertime function is
written directly into the name: It cools. The style of drink — often a
lower-in-alcohol combination of liqueur or fortified wine mixed with a
carbonated beverage — is served long and tall over plenty of ice, with the
promise of some relief from the heat.
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Refreshing as it is to drink, a cooler is also a
refreshingly easy cocktail to make.
The formula is loose and open to interpretation. A
cooler is made with vermouth or sherry, port, or gin, lengthened with soda
water, or topped with dry tonic or
fresh fruit juice. The ingredient list is
often short and the method to the point: Pour right into the glass, nary a
shaker or mixing glass in sight.
“Coolers are the best drinks for this weather,” said
Margot Lecarpentier, a founder of Combat, a bar in Paris. She recommends
beginning your cooling happy hour with a simple and satisfying combination: a
wine-based aperitif (such as a dry red or blanc vermouth), soda water, and a
slice of citrus. “It’s not as sweet as a spritz and works every time,” she
said.
Once you have mastered this combination, invite
experimentation. According to Lecarpentier, coolers provide an excellent entry
point to cocktail making. “Mixology can be mysterious and scary,” she said.
“But with coolers, it’s easy.”
There are plenty of ways to switch things up. Pour a
flavored tonic. Swap in one citrus for another, or add a splash of cider
vinegar. Try a few dashes of bitters, like classic Angostura, celery,
chocolate, or persimmon. Or add a rim: Lecarpentier suggests playing with salt,
sugar, or spices — such as Tajín, smoked pepper, or sumac — depending on the
drink.
Consider adding salt directly to your cooler to
highlight its flavors or temper sweetness. A pinch of flaky sea salt, a dash of
Worcestershire sauce, or a splash of brine from cornichons or olives all work
wonders to take a drink from fine to delightfully drinkable.
Even a final garnish can have a surprisingly strong
effect. “You always have to think about the smell,” Lecarpentier said. “If you
have a leaf of basil, it is so powerful at the nose you feel like you’re
drinking it, but you’re just smelling it.” In a basil vermouth cooler, the
fragrant herb is used not once but twice: first to infuse a bottle of dry
vermouth and later as garnish.
You can also skip carbonation altogether and amplify
a cocktail with juice. Lecarpentier often mixes fresh tomato, cucumber, or
pineapple juice into drinks; this watermelon-lime cooler combines fresh
watermelon juice with bittersweet Lillet Rosé, gin, red bitter liqueur, and
lime juice.
For an aesthetically pleasing addition that is also
functional, add slices of cucumber or citrus directly to the cocktail. A Porto
cooler layers a bright display of lemon, lime and orange wheels around the
inside of the glass. The longer the drink of white port, vermouth and tonic
sits, the more intense the citrus flavor.
The summer heat can also slowly transform a cocktail
built over ice. Ice from your own freezer rarely matches the quality of that in
a professional bar, and so drinks mixed in the comfort of home can often dilute
faster.
“The first sip isn’t going to taste like the last,”
Lecarpentier said. “So I’m not scared of making drinks that are a little
intense in the first sip because I know they’re going to evolve as you drink
it.”
And, let’s face it, it is H-O-T outside. The cooler, in all
its frigorific glory, offers icy relaxation. Refreshing to drink at every
stage, the adaptable cooler should be considered this season’s long line of
defense against the heat of late summer. You are going to need it.
Basil Vermouth Cooler
A double dose of basil — infused in dry vermouth and used as garnish —
ensures this drink is fresh and herbal throughout. A splash of olive brine and
a garnish with the olives add salinity and balance. Use the leftover
basil-infused dry vermouth in a 50/50 martini, Vermouth Royale, a Fair Play or
pour as is over a large ice cube and finish with a citrus twist.
Instructions
>
Step 1: Make basil-infused dry vermouth: Place the basil in one hand
and use the other to lightly slap the leaves, releasing the aromatics. Add the
leaves to the vermouth either in the bottle or in a large, clean container.
(You may need to pour out an ounce of vermouth to fit in all the leaves. If
this is the case, pour the vermouth into a glass with an ice cube and garnish
with a citrus twist. Drink while you infuse the rest.) Cover and set aside to
infuse at room temperature for three hours. Strain the vermouth through a
fine-mesh strainer, removing and discarding the basil leaves, and rebottle in
the original bottle. Store in the refrigerator and use the basil-infused
vermouth within three weeks.
> Step 2: Make the cocktail: Fill a Collins or
highball glass with ice. Add the sherry, basil-infused vermouth, and olive
brine. Top with tonic and soda water. Place the basil sprig in one hand and use
the other to lightly slap the leaves, releasing the aromatics. Garnish with the
basil, lemon peel, and olives.
Watermelon-Lime Cooler
While coolers are often stretched with something sparkling, this rose-hued
drink swaps in a pour of fresh watermelon juice. The inherent sweetness — and
deep pink color palette — of both the juice and the Lillet Rosé is tempered
with an ounce of gin and a splash of lime’s bright acidity. (If you cannot find
Lillet Rosé, use Lillet Blanc or even a blanc vermouth in a pinch.)
Instructions
>
Step 1: In
an ice-filled highball glass, combine the Lillet Rosé, red bitter, gin, and
lime juice. Top with the watermelon juice and stir gently to combine. Serve
immediately.
TIP: Although fresh watermelon juice, which
can be made in a juicer, blender, or food processor, keeps for three days
stored in the refrigerator, it should be used soon after making for the best,
brightest in flavor cocktail. Drink any extra juice as a shot with a squeeze of
lime for a bonus dose of hydration or pour into ice cube trays and freeze to
use in lieu of standard ice in another day’s cooler.
Porto Cooler
The key to this citrus-forward nod to Portugal’s venerable porto tónicos
lies in the citrus wheels that stack along the inside of the glass top to
bottom. As aesthetically pleasing as they are functional, use any one citrus or
mix of citrus, seeking out those with thin piths for glass-lining ease. Lime,
lemon, orange, blood orange, mandarin, Meyer lemon, and even kumquat are all
excellent choices, depending on your personal preference and season. To keep
the citrus rounds in place, use a wider-mouthed highball glass and alternate
adding citrus and ice. Once the white port, vermouth, bitters and tonic are
added, the citrus will gradually impart its flavor into the cocktail as it
sits, shifting the cooler’s flavor as you drink.
Instructions
>
Step 1: In
a wider-mouthed highball glass, tuck the citrus wheels around the sides of the
glass, adding ice as you move up the glass. (The ice will help keep them in
place.) Add the port, vermouth and bitters. Tuck a straw into the glass and top
with tonic.
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