A day in the colorful streets of Luweibdeh

Scenes of Weibdah taken on May 5, 2021. The neighborhood, apart from its artistic appeal, boasts some of the best restaurants in Amman.
Scene in Luweibdeh taken on May 5, 2021. The neighborhood, apart from its artistic appeal, boasts some of the best restaurants in Amman. (Photo: Kimi Bississo/Jordan News)
Early morning is when I prefer my dose of Luweibdeh. A variety-packed district made up of art galleries, bookstores, endless cafés, and numerous restaurants that spill onto the sidewalks. You can easily spend an entire day exploring the neighborhood without a plan in place.اضافة اعلان

 Sipping an espresso on the balcony of the National Gallery, overlooking Sculpture Park, is how I like to reset my thoughts and welcome the day ahead. If books are your preferred escape, the gallery offers a selection of reads for guests to help themselves to. The space is also ideal to set up your laptop and do a little work with a view, or simply browse the gallery walls that are filled with the works from over a thousand artists.

 You may know Luweibdeh for its art scene and cafes, but actually, the area quietly hosts some of Amman’s most incredible restaurants. If you’re not familiar with the area, “Papaya Thai Kitchen” is one of my personal favorites. I make sure to regularly visit to get my creamy shrimp curry fix. Served with jasmine rice and a side order of vegetable noodles, this meal is everything you crave. In addition to the consistently delicious food, I always look forward to the friendly banter with Ibrahim, who owns the place.

“Joz Hind” is another top recommendation. This family-run restaurant only sources fresh, local ingredients; Chef Luca designs a different menu every day of the week for an exclusive experience with every visit. If you’re looking for mouth-watering risotto and pizzas, then “Su Casa” is your spot — their desserts alone are pretty unforgettable. I cannot recommend enough the Affogato, a classic Italian dessert made of a shot of espresso poured over sweet, vanilla ice cream — a simple but incredible encounter for your taste buds. Last, but certainly not least, “Jasmine House” is arguably the best restaurant in Amman, period. Order the fillet that is accompanied with its signature mustard cream sauce — that is if you’re lucky enough to catch it on the menu that day.

 Burn off your meal by exploring this charming area through its winding streets. Any direction you take you’ll find yourself stumbling on to something inspiring, such as Darat Al Funun. This art gallery is split between six renovated historical buildings where you can discover the works of various artists from the Arab world. An entire afternoon could be spent here, but if time only permits a quick visit, try to make it in the late afternoon where you can head up to their outdoor terrace and indulge in a small snack while watching the sky change colors as the sun sets over the capital city.

 Evenings in Luweibdeh are just as exhilarating as the days. The streets fill with people taking evening strolls with friends and family as the air cools. Familiar faces I’ve come to recognize emerge. Such as the well-dressed man with his nonchalant strut, walking his dog, with a personal flair that adds yet another layer to this already colorful neighborhood.

 In the evening, you might not be able to find a place to sit as cafés get busier. People getting off work gather to take in the area’s friendly atmosphere, filled with conversation and laughter.

I end my night at “Rumi” café where any night of the week you find likeminded people who flock to this endearing spot to enjoy each other’s company over tea and coffee. I recommend their rich, hot chocolate — best in town, bar none!


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