Coming of age is marked by a series of firsts. Your first
kiss. Your first job. Your first drink.
Many who grew up in Dearborn, Michigan, would add to the
list: your first hookah.
اضافة اعلان
Located just outside downtown Detroit, Dearborn is home to
one of the United States’ largest Arab American communities: Nearly 50 percent
of residents identify as having Arab ancestry, according to the US census.
Middle Eastern shops, where you may find portable hookah cups, dot the streets.
There is also the Arab American National Museum (which sells hookah-themed
socks), and the Islamic Center of America, one of the nation’s oldest and
largest mosques.
And then there is the long list of hookah lounges, where
locals spend hours leisurely smoking flavored tobacco through water pipes while
catching up, watching soccer games or enjoying a live Arabic music performance.
“A spot like a hookah lounge, it is sacred,” particularly
for immigrants and refugees far from home, said Marrim (pronounced Mariam)
Akashi Sani, 25, who is Iraqi-Iranian. “And it is something you have to create
for yourself when you are displaced, and you might not ever be able to go back
home because you don’t really know what home is anymore.”
For many young people in Dearborn, core memories were made
at a hookah lounge: birthdays, graduations, that time you cried over the crush
who didn’t like you back or showed off your smoke ring skills to your friends.
“It is like a rite of passage here when you start smoking hookah,” Marrim said.
Muhammed Virak, 28 is Pakistani and went to what he
describes as an “all-Arab” school. Making Arab friends and getting drawn into
the ritual of smoking hookah was inevitable, he said. “They have always been
the culture.”
Many of the lounges do not serve alcohol and are seen as
alternatives to bars for customers who abstain for religious reasons. Some of
them are upscale, giving off “halal nightclub” vibes, said Marrim, but most
share the same features: plasma TVs mounted on the walls, leather seating,
images of Islamic symbols. (“It looks like a diner and a banquet hall had a
baby.”)
On any given weeknight, you may come across a rowdy group of
20-somethings at one table, and a pair of older men engaging in a hushed,
intense conversation on the next.
“it really feels like you’re in an extension of the Arab world,”
“For most people in Dearborn, going to the lounge is one of
the things that we look forward to,” Muhammed said.
Hookah, also known as shisha, argileh or hubbly bubbly, is
said to have its origins in India or Persia. These days, it’s especially
prevalent across the Middle East, but more and more lounges have also popped up
throughout cities like Paris, Tokyo and New York. So, it is no surprise that
the cafes have proliferated across Dearborn, where “it really feels like you’re
in an extension of the Arab world,” said Farah Al Qasimi, who photographed this
story.
Smoking hookah remains a cultural touchstone for many Arab
Americans, despite the well-documented health risks of tobacco use.
“The widespread popular belief is that hookah smoking is a
safer alternative,” said Mary Rezk-Hanna, an assistant professor at the
University of California, Los Angeles, School of Nursing, who researches the
vascular effects of tobacco products. In reality, Rezk-Hanna said, the
chemicals in hookah smoke are similar to those found in cigarette smoke.
Rezk-Hanna also noted that many lounges in the United States
are located within three miles of a college campus, which may contribute to
their popularity among youth. And research has shown that flavored tobacco
products such as hookah facilitate initiation, particularly among younger
users.
Like many young people in Dearborn, Marrim started smoking
hookah in high school. Despite the public health messages that she was
bombarded with throughout her childhood, she says she was not terribly
concerned about the health dangers of tobacco.
But she did wrestle with guilt, shame, and fear because her mother
used to say it was “haram” and “aib” — forbidden and shameful — for women to
smoke. Had her mother warned of health risks, Marrim said, “we probably would
have listened.”
Still, Marrim also felt a strong sense of liberation and
community. She remembers being 13 and secretly making hookahs out of water
bottles with her cousin. “That’s the age where you want to have secrets. You
want to rebel a little bit.”
There was one particular lounge, and one particular booth,
“where the major life events happened.” All of her teenage memories, she said,
are wrapped up in that space.
When Marrim was growing up, the legal age to smoke was 18;
last year Michigan raised it to 21, bringing it in line with recently updated
federal legislation. While today’s teenagers may not have the same legal access
to hookah that she did, Marrim thinks they will still find a way to smoke.
“Kids break the rules — that’s the way of the world,” she
said. “We were all kids and we tried it for the first time,” she added. “Might
as well do it in the safety of a lounge.”
Smoking shisha is inherently a group activity. Each person
spends a few minutes with the hose before passing it to the next person.
“That’s the age where you want to have secrets. You want to rebel a little bit.”
That social interaction is a key part of Middle Eastern
culture, explained Marwa Alomari, 23, a friend of Marrim’s who is
Iraqi-Lebanese. She used to work as a tour guide at the Arab American National
Museum and said the tradition of smoking hookah often came up in discussions
about Arab hospitality and the value of community.
“We’re taught early on, ‘You don’t eat alone; you eat in a
group. You don’t drink tea alone; you drink in a group,’” Marwa said. “You
smoke hookah in a group. That’s just how we’ve been nurtured.”
Abir Beydoun, 35, moved to Dearborn from Windsor,
Ontario, at 17 and spent much of her late teens and 20s in its lounges. Like
Marwa, she believes the businesses are essential to the fabric of the
community.
“Because our city is so built around auto transportation,”
Abir said, “there is not a lot of outdoor spaces where you can just, like,
live, and meet your people.”
A hookah lounge offers what sociologists refer to as a
“third place” — somewhere people can connect outside of their home or work.
Dearborn’s lounges foster connections not just between
neighbors, young and old, but also with the broader Arab community. Even now,
Abir’s childhood friends will frequently make the drive from Canada to visit
her and hit up a Dearborn lounge.
“They will get the sense of like, ‘I am around my fellow
Arabs,’” Abir, who is Lebanese, said. “‘I am with my community.’”
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