RIO DE JANEIRO, Brazil — Rio de Janeiro’s carnival, a glittering, sequin-studded festival of the
flesh, exploded back to life Friday with the first famed samba school parades
since COVID-19 hit Brazil.
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After two long years of facemasks,
social-distancing, and death, a sparkling sea of dancers, drummers, and
multi-story floats reclaimed the “Sambadrome,” the iconic beach city’s carnival
parade venue, which had been turned into a drive-through vaccination center at
the height of the health crisis.
The all-night parades by the city’s top samba
schools Friday and Saturday are the first since February 2020, marking a
turning point for hard-hit Brazil, where COVID-19 has claimed more than 660,000
lives — second only to the US.
“I’m just so happy. I think a lot of people are
going to cry ... including me,” said Ana Vieira, a 48-year-old geography teacher,
who was wearing a giant, glistening white costume to parade for the Imperatriz
samba school.
“Carnival is life. You can see the happiness on
people’s faces after two long years staying home and missing it,” Vieira, who
has been parading for 20 years, told AFP.
Revelers of the Mancha Verde samba school perform during the first night of carnival at Sambadrome in Sao Paulo, Brazil on April 22, 2022 into the early hours of April 23, 2022. (Photos: AFP)
The festivities were hit by tragedy, however, when
an 11-year-old girl died after being injured in a float accident during a
lower-level samba school parade contest Wednesday.
‘Couldn’t sleep’
The pandemic had left
Brazilians full of “saudades” — Portuguese for “longing” — for carnival, a
free-for-all of dancing, singing, and partying at close quarters that is
essentially the opposite of social distancing.
“I couldn’t sleep last night, I was so excited,”
said Rita Marcelino, a 62-year-old domestic worker who was dancing up a storm
as she waited to parade — a moment of catharsis after losing her job and “many”
friends and family members to the pandemic.
There were concerns carnival would be axed again
this year, after Rio authorities canceled it last year and then postponed this
edition by two months from the traditional dates — just before the Catholic
season of Lent — over fears of the Omicron variant spreading.
Members of the Sao Clemente Samba school perform during the first night of Rio’s Carnival parade at the Sambadrome Marques de Sapucai in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil on April 22, 2022.
But with more than 75 percent of Brazil’s 213
million people now fully vaccinated, the average weekly COVID-19 death toll has
plunged from more than 3,000 a year ago to around 100 — allowing the show to go
on.
All participants and the 75,000 attendees expected
each night are required to present proof of vaccination.
‘Two years of darkness’
Each samba school in the
competition has 60 to 70 minutes to tell a story in music and dance, which is
evaluated on nine criteria by the jury.
The reigning champions, Viradouro, chose as their
theme Rio’s epic 1919 carnival — the first celebrated after the devastation of
another pandemic, the Spanish flu.
“No sadness can withstand so much joy,” says their
samba theme song.
Other schools picked themes charged with social
messages, with Brazil facing divisive elections in October expected to pit
far-right President Jair Bolsonaro against leftist ex-leader Luiz Inacio Lula
da Silva.
Of the 12 schools, eight chose themes dealing with
racism or Afro-Brazilian culture and history, loaded issues in a country where
the current president has faced frequent accusations of racism.
“Brazil still suffers from racism. Nothing has
changed. Slums, hunger, poverty ... they have a color here: black,” said
Aristoteles Silva, 52, parading as a warrior for samba school Salgueiro, whose
theme song was an anti-racist anthem entitled “Resistance”.
“I’m hoping the election will bring a total change.”
Carnival should also provide some needed relief for
the pandemic-battered economy.
Beyond the swirl of floats, feathers and barely
covered flesh, carnival is big business, moving some four billion reais ($800
million) and creating at least 45,000 jobs, according to official figures.
But street vendor Maria Vitoria Souza, 18, who was
selling drinks outside the parades, said sales “could have been better.”
“Carnival’s still not back 100 percent, because
there are no ‘blocos’” — massive carnival street parties, which city
authorities nixed this year.
“But at least it’s a start.”
Participants were just happy the party was on.
“We’ve had two years of so much darkness in the
world,” said Latino Suarez, 45, who traveled from Sao Paulo to parade.
“Brazil without carnival isn’t Brazil. It’s part of
who we are.”
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