When King Charles was crowned on May 6, the world witnessed,
for the first time since his mother’s coronation in 1953, a ceremony that packs
more than 1,000 years of British pomp and pageantry into a single day. But for
some people, one day might not be enough.
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Britain teems with castles that offer travelers a chance to
walk the same halls and sleep in the same quarters as monarchs of days gone by.
Those who revel in the grand spectacle unfolding in Westminster Abbey may also
want to soak in the noble lore in the old stone walls of some of those castles.
“The sheer drama of the past thousand years of royal history
in Great Britain is like a long-running soap opera,” said Tracy Borman, a
London-based royal historian and the author of “Crown & Sceptre,” a history
of the British monarchy from William the Conqueror to Charles III. “You’ve got
the king who marries six times, the virgin queen, the crown changing hands
numerous times on the battlefield, abdication, usurpations, scandal. It’s
basically the best drama you could ever hope for.”
Sleeping in a castle can feel like playing a bit part in that
sweeping tale. “When people stay in a castle they never forget it,” said Roger
Masterson (aka the Castle Man), founder of Celtic Castles, a travel company and
booking platform that works with more than 100 castles across the UK.
In the past year, Masterson said he had noticed an increase
in Scottish castle bookings in particular, which he attributed to the coverage
of Queen Elizabeth II’s funeral and the royal family’s journey back to London
from Balmoral Castle, where the queen often spent her vacations. “It really
showed off Scotland at its best,” he said.
These six British castles may not be Balmoral, but they
still give travelers a chance to steep themselves in history and get a taste of
living, if not like royalty, at least like nobility.
Hever CastleSet in Kent, the “Garden of England,” just 56km from
Buckingham Palace, Hever Castle transports guests 700 years back in time with
fairy-tale architecture that features a medieval sandstone gatehouse, a double
moat and two portcullises reached via a drawbridge.
But it’s the castle’s storied history as the childhood home
of Anne Boleyn, the second wife of Henry VIII, that makes it a popular day trip
from London. “Anne decided to marry Henry when she was living here in 1526,
which ultimately led to her own coronation via the break with the Catholic
Church in Rome — a decision that changed the face of Europe and the course of
history,” said Owen Emmerson, Hever Castle’s historian.
Visitors overnighting at the 27-room bed-and-breakfast or
the four-bedroom cottage nestled within the estate’s 50-hectare grounds receive
complimentary access to relic-filled exhibition rooms and a four-acre
Italianate garden. The castle’s oak-and-walnut-paneled rooms house artifacts
including a prayer book belonging to Boleyn that bears her inscriptions and
signature. On exhibit through November are coronation robes worn by Cate
Blanchett in the 1998 film “Elizabeth”.
A 700-year-old structure
with a storied history, Hever Castle is about 56km from Buckingham Palace.
Rooms from 185 pounds (about $230) on weekdays, 210 pounds
($264) on weekends; day passes to the castle and gardens cost 23.10 pounds
($29), including tax.
Scone PalaceMore than 40 Scottish kings, including Macbeth, were crowned
at Moot Hill, on the grounds of Scone Palace in central Scotland.
The Gothic edifice, which dates to the 12th century and
functioned as the seat of the Scottish Parliament for centuries, has been the
established residence of a long line of earls from the Murray family (which
still owns the castle). Travelers can rent the private wing, which sleeps 16
guests in eight bedrooms. An atmosphere of nobility reigns in the dining room,
drawing room and long gallery, which are filled with regal furnishings,
including ivory, porcelain, royal portraits and silk brocade wall coverings.
Outside, the estate’s 40 hectare charm visitors with flowering gardens,
250-year-old Douglas fir trees, and a star-shaped maze of green and copper
beech hedges designed to evoke the Earl of Mansfield’s family tartan.
On guided tours, visitors can see a replica of the Stone of
Scone, a sacred throne that was used during the coronation ceremonies of
Scottish kings. “In 1296, it was taken by King Edward I of England and brought
to Westminster Abbey,” said Stephen Brannigan, head of Scone Palace.
Perhaps the most famous visit to the palace came in 1842
when Queen Victoria and Prince Albert stayed on their way to the Highlands (at
considerable expense to the Fourth Earl, who expressed in a letter the
inconvenience of the visit, but also knew that declining was not an option).
Prices start at 4,500 pounds per night (about $5,660, two-night minimum) for 10
people, including breakfast and tax; each additional guest is 450 pounds ($566)
per night.
Thornbury CastleOriginally an 11th-century manor house built for a Saxon
lord in the Bristol countryside, Thornbury Castle was converted into a
fortified castle by Edward Stafford, the third Duke of Buckingham, in 1510 with
the permission of King Henry VIII.
Guests overnighting at the castle, a 27-room Relais &
Châteaux property, are met with an impressive stone facade studded with
medieval-style battlements and gunports, oriel windows, and manicured Tudor
gardens within the 6 hectare grounds.
Opulent interiors include period décor, four-poster beds and silk wall
hangings. Outdoors, guests can partake in traditional country pastimes like
archery and hatchet throwing, and even enjoy a falconry display.
“The Buckingham story is a microcosm of the Tudor era —
politics, religion and beheadings,” said Tony Cherry, a local historian and
author who leads guided tours of the castle, recounting its rich history, royal
links, and architectural details. “Stafford, a potential successor to the
throne, conspicuously flaunted his wealth and royal blood, which made him a
threat to the king, who had him tried for treason and beheaded in 1521.”
Subsequently, Henry VIII became the owner of the castle for 33 years and
visited in 1535 with his second wife, Anne Boleyn, who lost her own head the
next year; guests can book a lavish suite named in Henry’s honor. Rooms, with
breakfast, from 280 pounds (about $352), including tax.
Glenapp Castle“When our guests arrive, they comment on how it is like
arriving at a grand home because there is no reception desk or no bar,” said
Jill Chalmers, managing director of Glenapp Castle, a Relais & Châteaux property
perched on the rugged Ayrshire coast of southwestern Scotland.
Panoramic views of the Irish Sea and the volcanic island
Ailsa Craig complement a storybook facade topped with turrets, towers and
crenelations, and a 44 hectare private estate full of gardens and woodlands.
“We have personal hosts and butlers that tend to guests,”
Chalmers said, adding that Glenapp Castle’s owner will often give guests a
personal history tour of the castle. A four-bedroom penthouse with a personal
butler, a private chef and a sauna was recently added to the hotel’s 17 suites.
Guests can dine at the castle’s new restaurant, in a
130-year-old greenhouse that echoes a similar conservatory at Balmoral.
Epicures can also join the chef to forage for Scottish ingredients like wood
sorrel, wild garlic and apple blossom within and around the property.
Traditional country pursuits including trout fishing and
pheasant shooting are some of the more than 70 experiences Glenapp offers.
Guests can also concoct a personal scent from 21 botanicals with a master
perfumer and explore the Hebrides islands on an overnight trip in the castle’s
private boat with a personal chef and a butler. Low season rates from 323
pounds (about $406) per night for a garden-view suite, including a full Scottish
breakfast and tax.
Amberley CastleOriginally a hunting lodge dating back to the early 12th
century, Amberley Castle was transformed into a fortified manor house during
medieval times and has hosted King Henry VIII, King Charles II, and Queen
Elizabeth II over the centuries.
Located in the West Sussex hamlet of Amberley, known for its
thatched cottages, the Relais & Châteaux castle still flaunts its original
stone curtain walls with crenelations, a working portcullis and twin-tower
gatehouse. The interiors showcase large wood-burning fireplaces, barrel-vaulted
ceilings and mullioned stone windows, while 19 guest rooms feature exposed
beams and the original stonework.
“The castle’s location is everything,” said Masterson, the
Celtic Castles founder. “It’s close to London in a beautiful English village,
and you have really good access to the south coast of England and Arundel
Castle, which is another super visitor attraction nearby.”
Guests can stroll the 4.8 hectare grounds alongside resident
peacocks or enjoy a game of croquet, tennis or golf on the 18-hole putting
course. Nearby, South Downs National Park’s rolling hills, river valleys and
woodlands — ideal for horseback riding, hiking and cycling — remain as timeless
as the castle. Rooms from 260 pounds (about $327), based on double occupancy,
including breakfast and tax.
Forter CastleFamily, royal or otherwise, is everything at Forter Castle,
a 16th-century fortress about 128km north of Edinburgh in the Scottish
Highlands.
“It very much feels like a family home,” said Katharine
Pooley, the owner and interior designer, who personally selected every design
detail as she and her father meticulously restored the castle.
Goatskin chairs, antler candelabras, wrought-iron
chandeliers and tartan rugs share space with Pooley family photographs and
heirlooms. Five of the six bedrooms are named for her father and the four
siblings with designs that reflect their respective personalities. Furnishings
include antiques and four-poster beds with Ralph Lauren linens. Pooley also
commissioned a hand-painted mural depicting the history of the castle on the
Great Hall’s ceiling. A large Pooley sword hangs above the Great Hall’s
fireplace — a tribute to the family’s history of producing high-quality swords
that the royal family uses during some ceremonial events.
The tightknit vibe is a draw for other families, too. “Many
of our guests are multigenerational families with some sort of ancestral link
to Scotland,” said Maryln McInnes, the castle’s manager.
In one intriguing transformation, a former dungeon has
become a designer kitchen stocked with Le Creuset cookware where guests can
prepare their own meals, or book a private chef.
Other extras include a private bagpipe performance,
traditional ceilidh dancing and Highland pastimes such as archery, air-rifle
practice and ax throwing. Low-season long-weekend rates for up to 12 people
start at 3,812 pounds (about $4,800, three-night minimum) on an exclusive-use
basis, including tax.
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