((Don’t) Join the Crowd)Henry Miller once wrote, “The light of Greece opened my eyes,
penetrated my pores, expanded my whole being.” Greece can be enlightening — and
nowhere more so than its capital city, Athens. But it is also true that, in the
summer, it can feel burning hot, with an average temperature of 84 degrees
Fahrenheit.
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And those temperatures are rising. Athens has endured record
heat in recent years, and this summer is no different: Greece and much of
Southern Europe have sweltered under a series of seemingly never-ending heat
waves. When you combine the heat with the millions of tourists who visit Athens
every year, the city can seem more overwhelming than enriching.
But do not fret. Below is a guide that will help you experience
the Greek capital’s glorious past and buzzing modern life while avoiding the
worst of the crowds and steamy weather.
Meticulously time your site visits
Athens draws visitors with its ancient ruins, and the Acropolis
is the most visited archaeological site in Greece. While avoiding crowds there
is difficult, it is not impossible.
First, avoid the long entrance lines by booking your tickets
online (20 euros, or about $22, for a single-entry adult ticket). Another
booking option, the Athena’s Combined Ticket (adults, 30 euros), provides
access to six more sites in Athens, including the nearby Agora. Start your day
here, before 11 a.m., when most tourists are at the Acropolis.
Your best window for a less crowded visit to the Acropolis is
between 1 p.m. and 5 p.m., when most visitors eat lunch. But the sun is high,
and it’s been very hot, so take precautions with the weather: Wear a hat and
sunscreen, walk slowly, find shade where you can, drink plenty of liquids and
take a bottle of water with you. And listen to your body — if it’s too hot,
hold off. Also note that starting Sept. 4, the Acropolis will be capped to
20,000 daily visitors. Greek authorities are experimenting with the limit to
help combat overcrowding at the site.
Eat like a Greek
With the sizzling summer temperatures, follow the local
traditions when it comes to eating. Have a full breakfast in the morning, only
a light bite in the afternoon and full dinner in the evening — after 8 p.m.,
when the heat starts to subside.
In terms of finding Greek cuisine, restaurants abound all over
the city. In Piraeus, get seafood, such as sea urchin and shrimp pasta, at
Yperokeanio, a tavern where the scenery feels like a time capsule of a 1950s
movie. LS and SIA in the neighborhood of Psyri, in central Athens, offers a
contemporary spin on traditional specialties, while Mavros Gatos, a mostly
tourist-free haunt in the hip neighborhood of Pangrati, makes delicious meat
dishes. For an upscale option by the sea and the best views of the Athens
Riviera, go to Ithaki restaurant. Reservations are recommended for all of the
above.
Roam farther in the city
The neighborhoods most popular with tourists are beautiful Plaka
and lively Monastiraki, ancient enclaves now teeming with visitors. Get away
from the crowds in neighborhoods such as the multicultural Kypseli — where you
can have a coffee at Agiou Georgiou Square or small bites and drinks at Eprepe
Bar — and the gritty Metaxourgeio. Attractions and studios in this creative,
artist-friendly neighborhood include the newly opened Alekos Fassianos Museum
(10 euros for adults, 7 euros for students) as well as the contemporary Rebecca
Camhi Gallery and Breeder Gallery.
You can take the metro or the bus (Adult day ticket: 4.10
euros), or hail one of the city’s yellow taxis. Most taxi drivers accept only
cash, unless you book a ride using Uber or the Free Now app most drivers in
Athens use.
First culture, then cool off with a swim
It’s not summer without swimming, right? You can get a dose of
culture as well as cool off on a day trip to Sounion, a peninsula about 43
miles from downtown Athens. Take the bus or a car to the imposing Temple of
Poseidon (adults, 10 euros), from where ancient Greek King Aegeus is said to
have jumped thus giving his name to the Aegean Sea, and after your visit, have
a swim at Kape Beach. Note that weekdays are less crowded at this beautiful
beach, as Athenians rush there on weekends.
Greece is a country of islands, so other options for temples and
swimming include the nearby island of Aegina. You can explore the Temple of
Aphaia after taking one of the multiple ferries from Piraeus that run all day,
and the journey lasts about an hour, with the prices ranging from 10 euros to
19 euros for a one-way ticket. A 15-minute boat ride away from Aegina, the
islet of Moni offers greenery and amazing blue waters.
For a swim closer to the city, visit the more upscale Astir
Beach (umbrella rentals for two people start at 80 euros), or the hot mineral
baths of Lake Vouliagmeni (adult day passes, 16 euros on weekdays and 19 euros
on weekends), both in the glamorous seaside suburb of Vouliagmeni.
Catch a movie
To truly experience summer as a local, go to one of Athens’ many
open-air cinemas. Most offer nightly screenings at 9 p.m. and 11 p.m., after
the heat has abated, and show English-language films with Greek subtitles — or
Greek with English subtitles. You might want to come hungry: In Greece, it is
customary to drink beer and eat a hot dog while watching a film.
The most popular location in Athens is Cine Thisio, which has
impressive views of the Acropolis. More neighborly venues include Cine Oasis, a
cinema filled with fresh flowers in Pangrati, and Cine Zephyros in Petralona,
which screens classic and art house films. For newer releases, go to the
terrace at Cine Anesis.
Booking online is not necessary, as usually only Cine Thisio has
long lines, but it is recommended (adult ticket prices for all theaters, 6.50
euros to 8.50 euros).
Take in nature
On a cooler day, experience nature by hiking Mount Hymettus,
just outside downtown Athens and above the Kaisariani neighborhood. With a
height of more than 3,000 feet, Mount Hymettus has a lot to discover, including
Greek Orthodox monasteries and caves. It’s a good alternative to the more
touristy Lycabettus Hill.
Or walk around the free National Garden and the Zappeion Megaron
conference and cultural center. On your walk, notice not just the surrounding
flora and fauna, but also the sculptures, which range from busts of the first
Greek statesman Ioannis Kapodistrias to a 19th-century sculpture of Eros
breaking his bow.
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