Whether it’s from aging, sun exposure,
smoking, or repetitive squinting, smiling, laughing or frowning, nobody is
immune to the skin creases and fine lines that come with age. And the area
around the eyes is particularly susceptible to such changes. “The skin under
and around the eyes is delicate and thinner,” said Dr Sara Perkins, an
assistant professor of dermatology at the
Yale University School of Medicine.
“It is a place where wrinkling and lines can show up more prominently than
other areas of the skin.”
اضافة اعلان
While some people do not care much about their eye
wrinkles, others may want to slow down that aging process and keep their skin
looking younger. This may lead them to wonder: Are those tiny, expensive jars
of eye cream worth it? Here’s what the experts say.
Can eye cream or
other facial skin care products help with wrinkles?
Perkins and Dr Zakia Rahman,
a clinical professor of dermatology at Stanford University, said there is
evidence that eye creams — and even regular facial moisturizers — can help
prevent and repair wrinkles. But there is one big caveat: They must contain
some key active ingredients: retinols (or prescription retinoids) or vitamin C.
“When we’re talking about the efficacy of eye
creams, it’s not fair to lump all eye creams together,” Perkins said. “Because
some of them may just be glorified moisturizers without any biologically active
ingredients in them.”
Retinols and prescription retinoids are closely
related chemical compounds derived from vitamin A. Retinoids are typically
prescription strength, while retinols are generally found in over-the-counter
products. These substances can increase cell turnover, prevent collagen
breakdown, produce new collagen, and create more hyaluronic acid (a substance
the body produces naturally that helps keep the skin hydrated). Experts say
there is good evidence that these compounds can help prevent and improve
wrinkling. “Every dermatologist I know, myself included, uses these as part of
their skin care regimen,” Rahman said.
The two experts noted that both retinols and
retinoids — but particularly retinoids, which are more potent — can cause skin
irritation, though that should diminish over time. If you’re buying an over-the-counter
product with retinol, Perkins recommended looking for one with at least 0.25
percent to 1 percent retinol.
Perkins also cautioned that these products can
worsen sunburns, so she recommended applying them at night and wearing
sunscreen during the day. (She also mentioned that they are made less effective
when exposed to sunlight.) And both experts emphasized that if you’re pregnant,
you should not use products with retinol or retinoid.
There’s also moderate evidence that topical
vitamin C helps to inhibit and repair wrinkles. “It’s a potent antioxidant,” Rahman
said, which means vitamin C neutralizes harmful molecules called free radicals
that can damage the skin. It also helps with collagen production, she said.
However, Perkins noted that while there is “compelling evidence” that topical
vitamin C helps with wrinkles, the data is more robust for retinols and
retinoids. If you’re choosing between the two, both experts recommended using a
retinol or retinoid rather than a topical vitamin C. And as with retinols and
retinoids, there is a potential that vitamin C could cause skin irritation.
The experts also mentioned that there is evidence
that skin care products containing hyaluronic acid may improve the appearance
of the skin. This ingredient can plump the skin, giving it a more youthful
look. However, both experts noted that these effects were only temporary.
“There is data showing that using hyaluronic acid will improve the appearance
of fine lines and wrinkles,” Perkins said. But “it’s working in a different
way, by bringing water into the skin as opposed to working on a molecular
level” as the other active ingredients mentioned above do.
Are eye creams
superior to regular facial moisturizers for wrinkle prevention or repair?
“Eye cream as a category is
one of my biggest pet peeves,” Perkins said, adding that the ingredients in eye
creams are generally the same as those found in facial moisturizers.
Rahman agreed. Eye creams may be a bit thicker or
have a lower strength of active ingredients compared with other facial skin
care products, since they’re tailored for the sensitive eyelid skin. But
overall, “they tend to cost much more per ounce than regular moisturizers used
for the face, and they often don’t have ingredients that are much different,” Rahman
said. Personally, she uses regular facial moisturizer for the skin around her
eyes.
So is eye cream
worth it?
A: Unless you prefer to use
an eye cream, a regular facial moisturizer that contains the key active
ingredients mentioned above should work the same on wrinkles. If you buy an eye
cream with those ingredients, you’re probably just paying more money for less
product that has similar benefits. But with any of these skin care products,
you also shouldn’t expect a miracle, and the results can take time. The effects
“take months, not days,” Rahman said.
As for the best eye wrinkle prevention method? Both
experts unequivocally agreed: Sun protection is key.
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