LUXOR, Egypt – When Howard Carter discovered
Tutankhamun’s
glittering tomb in Egypt’s Valley of the Kings 100 years ago, he was living in
a mud-brick house surrounded by desert so dry that it had preserved the tombs,
mummies and towering temples for more than 3,000 years.
اضافة اعلان
In the century
that followed, Carter’s house was turned into a museum with a green, palmy
garden, thanks to water brought in from the Nile. The river’s annual floods
were stilled by the construction in 1970 of
Egypt’s Aswan High Dam, upstream
and to the south of Luxor, allowing more frequent planting. More and more,
farmers used the Nile’s water to inundate the expanding fields of alfalfa,
sugar cane, and vegetables that fed the country’s soaring population.
All of that water
seeped into the stone foundations of Luxor’s epic temples and the mud brick of
Carter House, mixing with salt in the soil and on the stones as they drew the
water up like straws. Sandstone turned to sand and limestone cracked, crumbling
the very old and the not very old at all alike.
Carter House
reopened this month, protected from its own water-hungry garden by a new circle
of desert, after a two-year restoration that stabilized the foundations and
supplied the interior with Carter-era furniture and artwork. The famed temples
of Karnak and Medinet Habu are now guarded by giant pumps that suck groundwater
away.
But the danger is
coming from above as well as below: Residents and archaeologists say rainstorms
have arrived with increasing frequency as the climate changes, corroding the
stones and washing ancient color from the carvings. Some temple stones have
cracked in two; moisture has reduced chunks of others to little more than
powdery ocher sand; and still others are eaten away entirely.
A visitor at the reopening of Carter House, on the 100th anniversary of the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, in Luxor, Egypt, November 4, 2022.
“Maybe people here
don’t go to school, but they know that if we treat the earth badly, the bad
will come back,” said Abdu Ghaba, 42, who grew up in New Gourna, across the
Nile from Luxor.
Egypt is warming
almost twice as fast as the rest of the world, and the Nile, the country’s main
source of water, is drying up. Rising seawater is killing crops in Egypt’s
breadbasket, the fertile
Delta region north of Cairo where the Nile flows into
the Mediterranean. The ancient city of Alexandria, on Egypt’s northern
Mediterranean coast, stands to drown.
The effects of
global warming on Egypt’s celebrated antiquities are already striking.
In Luxor, the
changing weather is amplifying the destructive impacts of human developments
around the monuments over the centuries. The tombs in the Valley of the Kings
will be “gone completely” within a century if they are not protected from mass
tourism or other human-made stressors, the country’s most famous Egyptologist
and a former antiquities minister, Zahi Hawass, has warned.
Archaeologists say
some of Egypt’s monuments are already visibly damaged, and others, such as the
15th-century Citadel of Qaitbay in Alexandria, are under threat from rising
seas.
In the southern
city of Aswan, temperatures that often surpass 37.7°C have strained ancient
granite monuments. Expanding under the hot sun and cooling in the night air,
the granite eventually cracks, erasing inscriptions in the process.
Ghaba recalled
that when the first strong rainstorm in his lifetime terrified Luxor in the
1990s, older villagers were convinced that the sky was crying from the
pollution of nearby factories, avenging itself on the humans below.
He now works for
an organization dedicated to documenting the ancient tombs in the Valley of the
Kings in infinitesimal detail using sophisticated 3D scanners.
“I want the tombs
and the temples to stay alive — to preserve them,” he said. “We have to create
something for the future to protect them.”
Workers replace damaged Pharaonic stones with new ones crafted by stonemasons at the Medinet Habu temple complex in Luxor, Egypt, November 3, 2022.
Long preserved by
dry air and low population density, the slow-burning deterioration of Egypt’s
antiquities hastened under Muhammad Ali Pasha, Egypt’s ruler in the first half
of the 1800s. The onset of modernity at that time brought more people, more
agriculture — which required more water — and more industrial activity to
Luxor.
Egyptian
authorities and foreign archaeologists thought they were doing the Karnak
temples a favor in the 1870s by hauling away centuries’ worth of debris that
had accumulated there. For future tourists, they were: The excavation revealed
the legs of great statues and the bases of towering columns.
Until the High Dam
held back the annual Nile floods, however, the digging also allowed salt- and
mineral-rich floodwater to run down into the temple complex every year for a
century, eroding the stones. Only the pumps installed in 2006 stopped further
damage.
Humans
unintentionally caused another noticeable change in recent years: Pigeons have
come to roost all over Medinet Habu, streaking the walls with their acidic
droppings, which damage the stone.
The birds arrived
there after Egypt’s government, hoping to better protect the monuments, forced
villagers out of a nearby settlement where they had lived for many years among
a set of tombs. The villagers did not want to go. The pigeons they had raised
for food stayed close, moving into the temple.
But the most
obvious human impact on Luxor’s monuments is the sheer number of people who
visit them. Before the coronavirus pandemic began in 2020, thousands of
tourists passed through King Tut’s tomb daily.
Trying to balance
tourism with preservation, the government commissioned the Getty Conservation
Institute to install a ventilation system to mitigate humidity bred by human
sweat and breathing, among other fixes. The project opened in 2019.
Another approach,
advanced by the Madrid-based Factum Foundation, is to create realistic replicas
that tourists can visit instead of the tombs — a model pioneered in France,
where a full-scale replica of the Lascaux Cave and its prehistoric drawings has
replaced the sealed-off original as a tourist destination.
A lifelike
re-creation of King Tut’s tomb has been open to Carter House visitors since
2014, and the foundation hopes to scan more tombs.
“If anything crazy happens
in the world,” said Aliaa Ismail, 31, the project’s manager, “we’re making a
record because we don’t want it to be lost forever.”
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