POMPEII, Italy —
On a bright morning in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius, a stout shepherd with a
wool sweater stretched over his belly whistled and clicked and steered his
flock of sheep to a grassy slope above Pompeii’s frescoed ruins. He glanced a
few feet down at a house destroyed nearly 2,000 years ago under a fiery rain of
volcanic rock and tapped a grazing ewe with his crook to make sure it did not
get too close and take a tumble.
اضافة اعلان
“It can happen,” the
shepherd, Gaspare de Martino, said with a shrug.
In recent years, the
vast archaeological park of Pompeii, a city buried alive by the eruption of
Vesuvius in 79AD, has turned to high-tech options to maintain its excavated
ruins. A surveillance drone makes a monthly flight over the site’s roughly
10,000 exhumed rooms. Artificial intelligence programs analyze aerial images
for new cracks, fallen stones and other signs of erosion. But to prevent the
third of the park that remains hidden under pumice and meters of earth from
becoming overgrown with thorn bushes, wild hedges, and trees, Pompeii has found
a more appropriately ancient, and inexpensive, solution in hungry sheep.
A sheep trims grass in
an unexcavated section of the archeological site of Pompeii, Italy, on December
19, 2022.
Without the sheep
“you’d have some kind of jungle that would invade the archaeological structures
and the site,” said Gabriel Zuchtriegel, the park’s director. He said that he
came up with the idea of bringing in the sheep after seeing them maintain the
land on top of dikes in the North Sea, and said that the Pompeii sheep would
chomp down invasive vegetation, destructive roots and wild terrains that could
lead to the city’s reburial under landslides.
“They’re stopping the
beginning of something,” he said.
Pastoral rebrandingBut Zuchtriegel
acknowledged that his new landscaping project, which began a few weeks ago, was
as much about reimagining Pompeii’s immediate marketing future as it was about
preserving its archaeological past. For a city most closely associated with
choking clouds of ash and incinerating gusts of heat from one of the most
horrific natural disasters in recorded history, the sheep — along with newly
planted vineyards, orchards in ancient atriums, and plans for local olive oil —
are part of a Pompeii Pastoral rebranding campaign to move away from fire and
brimstone, and toward farm-to-table.
The Odeon theater in
Pompeii, Italy, on December 19, 2022.
“I even dream,”
Zuchtriegel said in German-accented English as the sheep bleated around him,
“of wool.”
Zuchtriegel is one of
the so-called super directors recruited internationally by Italy to modernize
major museums. He may have visions of a Pompeii-branded farm producing milk,
cheese, and lamb to be served at a new restaurant overlooking the site, and of
exclusive scarves and sweaters stacked in a gift shop, but as he points out,
the sheep themselves are nothing new for Pompeii.
Pliny the Elder, the
ancient world’s great naturalist, wrote in his encyclopedic “Natural History”
that the region around Pompeii had “fleeces of sheep so handsome”. He was less
impressed with their brains, asserting that “the fleecy sheep is the stupidest
of animals”.
The volcano’s eruption
killed Pliny with “some gross and noxious vapor,” as his nephew, Pliny the
Younger, wrote in his own searing account of the disaster.
In the ensuing
centuries, sheep returned and grazed on the earth above the buried city, even
after excavation began in the 18th century.
‘They’ll eat
anything’For generations, the ancestors
of de Martino, including his grandfather and father, led their flock to the
park’s unexcavated grounds. Only about 15 years ago, he said, did the park
management tell him to take a hike.
The archaeological
site in Pompeii, Italy, on December 19, 2022.
“We were here forever,
but then the old director didn’t let us in anymore,” de Martino said. “They
didn’t like the dung. What was I supposed to do, pick up after them?”
He hissed commands —
“Ishuh, Ishuh” — at his two Belgian Shepherds, Sara and Stellina, and leaned on
his crook as the sheep mowed the grass and devoured tall reeds and leapt to
bite the berries off bushes. “They’ll eat anything.”
The night before,
Vesuvius, which is still an active volcano, grumbled near its crater with a
small earthquake, though experts say not dangerously. De Martino, 40, shook off
any concern. “When it explodes, it explodes,” he said. “You can’t plan these
things. You can’t say, ‘Hold on a sec.’”
So far, the sheep seem to be a welcome addition. Tourists walking on the labyrinth of ancient roads paved with large stones looked up from their guidebooks at the sound of clanging sheep bells.
He expressed more
concern about making a living. Between the competition from big agriculture,
and the difficulties of finding fields for his flock around busy streets and a
maze of private property, he said he had to transition into truck driving.
“With 151 sheep, how do you live?” he asked.
He said Zuchtriegel’s
invitation to return to the unexcavated fields was an opportunity to “get bigger”.
A fleecy
maintenance crewSo far, the sheep seem
to be a welcome addition. Tourists walking on the labyrinth of ancient roads
paved with large stones looked up from their guidebooks at the sound of
clanging sheep bells. “How do I get up there?” one called to Zuchtriegel, who
stood atop the slope and shook his head no. “Prohibited?” the man called back,
disappointed.
Zuchtriegel has sought
to use the sheep to introduce autistic children to the park, believing it
creates a more memorable, and authentic, Pompeii experience than a lecture
about the four styles of Pompeii wall art. “Maybe one day,” Zuchtriegel said,
“we’ll have a thousand sheep or other animals.”
Pompeii maintenance
workers Lorenzo Diglio, Pasquale Lombardi, Giuseppe Mingo, Mario Caracciolo,
and Antonio Mariano Siepe (left to right) at the archaeological site in Pompeii,
Italy, on December 19, 2022.
The maintenance
workers who are stationed by the Vesuvius Gate near the livestock’s outdoor
stall, which is scattered with fennel, said the more lawn-mowing animals, the
merrier.
“If they didn’t do it,
we’d have to,” Pasquale Lombardi, 52, said, thankfully. Another member of the
maintenance crew, Antonio Mariano Siepe, 31, spoke about the potential of the
sheep, especially “with roasted potatoes”.
The men walked down
the Via Vesuvius, which runs alongside the House of Leda, just below the slope
upon which the sheep grazed. There, they tried to strike up a conversation with
Barbara dell’Isola, 28, an art restorer in white scrubs, who worked near the
sensual fresco of the Spartan queen holding Jupiter, disguised as a swan, on
her lap.
Without the sheep “you’d have some kind of jungle that would invade the archaeological structures and the site.”
She thought, at first,
that having the sheep work the fields above her while she worked on the walls
“was strange”.
“I felt like there was
danger, that some detritus might fall on the walls,” she said. But then she
realized that “they only eat.”
Bringing life ‘back
to Pompeii’Some of the park’s
staff saw the return of the sheep as a kind of return of life to Pompeii, a
place, perhaps more than any other, that was synonymous with agonizing death.
Gabriel Zuchtriegel,
director of the Pompeii archaeological park, in Pompeii, Italy, on December 19,
2022.
A friendly
brown-and-white stray dog followed Maurizio Bartolini, Pompeii’s gardener, as
he walked to the fields. He said the park’s clean environment and lack of
pollution had drawn more wild animals, including hoopoe birds, an owl that took
residence above the aristocratic House of Pansa, and lots of hedgehogs.
“The animals have come
back to Pompeii,” he said.
At around 1pm, de
Martino sent his dog Sara to start rounding up the sheep, whose incessant
ripping at the grass sounded like a heavy rain. They made a noisy, pealing
parade back through the Vesuvius Gate and down a dirt road outside the park
with de Martino following closely behind. Giuseppe Mingo, 59, one of the
maintenance workers, watched them go, the ruins at their backs, the volcano
looming above their heads.
“It’s like ancient
times,” he said.
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