Occupied Palestinian Territories — Amid the limestone ruins of homes
in a village razed by Israeli forces long ago, a Christmas tree adorned with
red and gold baubles went up on a recent evening, watched by a crowd of former
residents and their descendants.
اضافة اعلان
Shahnaz Doukhy, 44, her husband and two
sons were among about 60 people who attended the tree lighting in the shadow of
a roughly 200-year-old church, the only structure left standing after soldiers
destroyed the Palestinian Christian village of Iqrit during Christmas of 1951.
“It’s good for our kids to come and know
that this is the land of their ancestors,” Doukhy said.
Former residents of Iqrit and their descendants during a gathering on
December 10, 2022, at a 200-year-oldchurch that was the only building left
standing after Israeli soldiers destroyed the Palestinian Christian village in
1951.
“And for them to continue with their kids,”
added her husband, Haitham Doukhy, 53. “This is what connects us here, even if
the village is no longer here.”
The couple put up a tree for the first time
last year, hoping to start a tradition for the families of people expelled from
Iqrit decades ago, whose attempts to return to live there have been repeatedly
blocked by the Israeli government and military.
They come to the church for monthly Mass,
Easter, weddings, and baptisms, driving from miles away past Jewish towns that
did not exist when Iqrit was a small but thriving village.
“We observe the main stations of our life —
birth, marriage, and death,” said Shadia Sbeit, 50, whose two children were
baptized in the church. “What we miss is the years between.”
When return is blockedOn December 26, the church will offer a
Christmas Mass — an observance mixed with joy and bitterness given Iqrit’s
history.
Former
residents of Iqrit and their descendants at a monthly Mass on December 10,
2022.
The church, at the top of a hill
overlooking agricultural lands and the village cemetery, was founded in the
early 1800s by a priest from Syria, who is buried inside. Small imprints of
crosses and crescents line the top of its bricks, a nod by its Muslim architect
to the closeness of Islam and Christianity.
Iqrit’s faithful say the church is about
more than just religion.
“We observe the main stations of our life — birth, marriage, and death. What we miss is the years between.”
It represents feeling at home and a small
salve for the pain of displacement, bringing them closer to the stories passed
on by their grandparents.
Hundreds of depopulated and destroyed
Palestinian villages in present-day Israel share a fate similar to Iqrit’s —
left behind as some 700,000 Palestinians were expelled or fled their homes in
1948 during the war surrounding Israel’s establishment as a state. Palestinians
call the mass expulsions the Nakba, or catastrophe.
On November 8, 1948, the Israeli military ordered
Iqrit’s nearly 500 residents to leave so it could create a military buffer zone
near the border with Lebanon. They were told that they could return in two
weeks, according to court documents and residents.
But their pleas to return were rejected by the
regional military governor, government records show.
In 1951, they appealed to Israel’s Supreme
Court. That July, the court ruled that they were “permitted to settle the
village of Iqrit”. But the military blocked their return.
Then, during Christmas, the army blew up
their homes, leaving only the church standing, according to a telegram sent to
an Israeli state lawyer by Iqrit residents days later.
In 2003, the residents appealed again to
the court. This time, it ruled against them.
Former residents and descendants gather for
a tree lighting event in the Palestinian Christian village of Iqrit in the
occupied Palestinian Territories on December 10, 2022.
Israel maintained that it could not allow
them to return “due to the heavy consequences such a step would have on the
political level”, according to the court decision. “The precedent of the
resettlement of the displaced of the village will be used for propaganda and
politics by the Palestinian Authority,” it added, citing the state’s argument
and referring to the body that administers parts of the Israeli-occupied West
Bank.
Portraits that witness historyThe right of return for the hundreds of
thousands of displaced Palestinians and millions of their descendants has long
been a key demand during Palestinian-Israeli peace negotiations, but one that
Israel has largely rejected.
Still, many hope to return to their
ancestral villages.
“It seems like we’re only going to return as dead bodies,” she said. “We’re not allowed to return while we’re alive.”
Graffiti around Iqrit give expression to that
dream. “I will not remain a refugee. We will return,” reads a message on a
storage shed.
In the late 1960s, former residents and
their families began visiting the village after Israeli military rule ended for
Palestinian citizens of Israel and they were allowed to move around the country
more freely.
They said they found the church in
disrepair and overrun by animals. They cleaned and renovated it — adding new
tiles and pews and covering the walls with stucco.
Above the altar are portraits of Jesus, the
Twelve Apostles, and Mary, preserved by residents of a nearby Palestinian
Christian village and handed back when people began returning to the church.
The 200-year-old church that was the only
building left standing after Israeli soldiers destroyed the Palestinian
Christian village of Iqritin 1951.
“They are witnesses to the history,” Soheel
Khoury, who leads the Iqrit congregation, said, looking at the medieval-style
paintings.
On a wall, a black-and-white photograph
shows the village before 1948, with dozens of homes along the hillsides.
Passing on memories of homeAfter the tree lighting, Khalil Kasis, 45,
stood with his two children and pointed toward the valley below in the
direction of a cluster of trees and the cemetery.
“We used to come here all the time and have
barbecues there,” he said.
“You used to live here?” his son Amir, 13,
asked excitedly.
“No, no,” his father said. “Our family
house was on the other side of the church, but it was destroyed a long time
ago.”
He and his wife try to bring their children
to Iqrit a few times a year, he said. “We try to show the kids…” he began but
trailed off, “we try to impart to them the cause.”
“This monument was erected in memory of our fathers and mothers who clung to Iqrit’s church in the hope of returning alive. They moved into the afterlife as refugees in their homeland.”
Nearby along the church wall, other
children took turns grabbing the rope and ringing the church bell.
Naheel Toumie, 59, who was trying to coax
Maria, her reluctant 2-year-old granddaughter, to take a photograph with the
tree, said she helped organize summer camps there. Doing so for the descendants
of former villagers was important, “so they can know who they are and where
they’re from,” she said.
They begin by taking the children to the
cemetery and telling them the story of the village and those who lived in it.
“It seems like we’re only going to return
as dead bodies,” she said. “We’re not allowed to return while we’re alive.”
Agricultural
land near Iqrit on December 10, 2022.
Some did try to return in the 1970s, when a
few former residents in their 60s and 70s moved into the church as a form of
protest.
Ilyas Dawood was among them.
For four years, starting in 1973, he lived
in the church with other village elders, with their children bringing them food
and water. In 1977, at 71, he died of a heart attack at the church doorstep.
Near the cemetery entrance, a large plaque
honors him and the others who lived in the church and were buried there.
“This monument was erected in memory of our
fathers and mothers who clung to Iqrit’s church in the hope of returning
alive,” it reads. “They moved into the afterlife as refugees in their
homeland.”
They had yearned to rebuild family homes
and live among the rolling hills where they spent childhoods picking laurel,
thyme, and olives. Instead, they returned to small limestone family tombs
decorated with crosses, rosaries, and pots of fake flowers.
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