In recent years, there has been a rise in the gendered
approach to food, and research has recorded an increasing interest in the topic
— specifically in anthropological studies and human and social sciences,
according to Marzia Mauriello and Gaia Cottino in their research paper “Food
and Gender: Contemporary Perspectives, Studies, and Researches”.
اضافة اعلان
Food is a frequent topic between Jordanians, with questions
like “What are you eating today?” and “What is today’s cooked meal?” making for
quick yet efficient small talk. This is important proof of the existence of the
culture of food.
Food is advertised, marketed, sold, bought, distributed, made,
and thrown away. Each country has its special dish, each road has a market of
sorts selling food, and each city counts hidden gems among its local
restaurants. All of these are genres and subgenres of food, each offering
intricate details of how it has a societal impact on its consumers.
We can further observe the way food is used in TV shows,
movies, books, and advertisements. It is non-discreetly thrown in to market a
certain company or tell you to lose weight with a food’s specific properties.
It also goes as far as setting specific gender roles with the language people
use. This can be seen in certain advertisements for cheese, for example, where
a mother is seen making sandwiches for her children and husband, who has just
come home from work. In a different advertisement, a meaty burger is being made
by a male chef, immediately masculinizing a simple sandwich.
An article posted by the Munchies in 2014 discussed the ways
advertisers exploit gender biases to market their products.
“If you are a man, advertisers believe that you like meat
cooked on a fire, or food that’s simple to eat. Or you like yogurt, crumbly
chocolate that can only be enjoyed as a ‘guilty pleasure,’ and anything without
calories,” Oscar Rickett remarked in the Munchies.
Considering that gender can also have its deeply rooted
culture, food and gender can then coexist in a sociocultural system, with
effects that are rooted in the structures of society.
“Food is culture, and everything — especially gender — is
affected by culture,” according to philosophy professor and director of a Women’s
and Gender Studies program Silvia Benso.
Historically, there has been an age-old connection that has
been observed between food and femininity. Many studies have investigated this
phenomenon, concluding women’s disproportionate food labor is causing gendered
divisions between the public and private spheres, as has been researched by
Kate Cairns, Josée Johnston, and Shyon Baumann in their article “Caring About
Food: Doing Gender in the Foodie Kitchen”. When asking 15 mothers in Jordan,
ages ranging between 27 and 55, about who cooks in the family and is
responsible for the feeding of the kids, only one of them answered with her
husband. Yet even then, it was attributed to him being a chef and liking
cooking, rather than a normal familial, joint effort.
According to Tony Coxon in his essay “Men in the Kitchen”,
men’s relationship to cooking has traditionally been defined as a hobby, rather
than a necessity for survivability. It has also been seen as a means of
“helping out”, according to Marjorie L. DeVault in her book “Feeding the
Family: The Social Organization of Caring as Gendered Work”, and in other cases
it is tied to a profession. These relationships to cooking are never seen as
men wanting or even needing to cook for their families, and instead it is seen
as them being “nice” or cooking professionally.
“Regardless of how often gender norms dictate that men
should occasionally cook, gender norms also still hold women responsible for
the nutritional status of their household,” writes Alison N. C. Reiheld in her
article “Gender Norms and Food Behavior”.
Jordan News asked a few Arab women who make food-related
videos on TikTok for their thoughts on the phenomenon; they cited another
common issue they face.
A number of them, who each have over 50,000 followers,
mentioned a disparity in the comments they receive as compared to their male
counterparts on the social media platform.
“You should feed your family instead of profiting off of
your food on
TikTok,” or some variation thereof statements commonly, framing
the influencers’ work as being “less important than being a good wife to some
imaginary man” and “incredibly immodest” for a woman to do, one of the women
said.
While many people are supportive, the TikTokers remark that
they are often targeted and over-criticized for food that is exactly the same
as their male counterparts make, yet they receive comments such as “That looks
atrocious,” and “Who would eat that?” while their male counterparts receive
waves of support and comments such as “What an exotic dish that is, would love
to try it, you seem talented!” instead.
Food and gender also intersect when eating at a restaurant.
Maddie, another TikTok creator, told Jordan News that waiters will serve her
boyfriend with the steak she ordered and her with his salad.
“I’m not the vegan one, my boyfriend is,” she said. She said
that the assumption on the part of the waiters confused her and could be easily
avoided if they had asked.
“It felt like the food is gendered, somehow. Salad for the
woman, steak for the man.”
Yassir, a vegetarian foodie, told Jordan News he regularly
experiences the same phenomenon when out with female friends.
“The burger, the steak, the chicken — you name it. Whatever
seems more ‘masculine’ is handed to me, while the salad, the noodles, or a
meatless dish is handed to my (female) friends,” he said, adding that he has
even been laughed at by waiters when he corrects them on whose dish is whose.
The gendered experience of food is often looked over, yet
its effects are so deeply rooted that anthropology and social sciences took it
upon themselves to dissect and investigate the intricacies this phenomenon
offers.
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