Two weeks ago, Maleika Jones was still waiting for a package of
Ramadan decorations. In her preparations for the monthlong holiday, which in the US
started April 2, she ordered festive lights and trimming to hang up for her
family’s celebrations as they break the fast each night.
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“Of course, even though it’s an Amazon order, it
takes several weeks to get here,” she said.
Jones lives in Anchorage, home to Alaska’s only
mosque — some 10,782km west of Mecca,
Saudi Arabia — in a commercial district
of the city, next to a sports bar and an insulation contractor’s office, with
views of the Chugach Mountains.
The mosque — the northernmost in the country — is
also the heart of a growing
Muslim community that is preparing to gather for
Ramadan for the first time since the pandemic began. The roughly 2,500 Muslims
in the Anchorage area come from all over the world; immigrants, refugees,
locals, veterans, students and others, all sharing a faith and a love of food.
The Muslim community “is quite a diverse population,
but then we’re all able to come together on the common grounds of our faith and
traditions, the core traditions,” said Jones’ husband, Gregory Shuaib Jones, an
electrician. “The different ethnic groups may have some slight variations in
the style of their cooking or the style of their dress, but the core is there.”
The Joneses moved to Anchorage from
South Carolina in 2009 with the purpose of teaching people about Islam. Both are members of
the Anchorage Interfaith Council, and Maleika Jones is the co-chair.
Anchorage is one of the nation’s most ethnically
diverse cities, with more than 100 languages represented in its public school
system. People often move to the area as part of the military, as new
immigrants or as
refugees — many from the Congo, Somalia, Sudan, Cuba, Iraq,
and Bhutan. Most recently, 100 refugees from Afghanistan have settled in the
area.
Heather Barbour, a lawyer and a leader in local
Muslim circles, said the mosque — formally, the
Islamic Community Center of Anchorage Alaska — has members from 40 to 50 countries.
“I love the fact that there are so many different
cultures and people from all over the world, and I think that makes Anchorage a
very rich city,” she said. “The Muslim community is kind of a microcosm of
that. You take that diversity and you kind of shrink it down, and that’s the
mosque.”
This diversity can lead to some conflicts and
differences of opinions, but Barbour said it is one of the community’s greatest
strengths.
“If you go somewhere like
Chicago or
New York,
you’ll find different mosques,” she said. “You’ll find a Pakistani mosque or an
Arab mosque or an Albanian mosque. It’s a mosque, but it’s infused with the
culture of the place. We don’t have that ability. It really kind of forces us
to try to stay true to the religion and not let different cultures influence
how we do things.”
“I love the fact that there are so many different cultures and people from all over the world, and I think that makes Anchorage a very rich city.”
Anchorage’s location can pose complications for
Ramadan. During the holiday, Muslims around the world forgo eating from dawn
until sunset every day of the month — breaking the fast with a feast called
iftar. Ramadan dates vary year to year, following the Islamic lunar calendar.
This year, Ramadan falls in the spring in the
Northern Hemisphere, and in
Alaska that will mean fasting from 5am to about 6:30pm.
But when the
holiday falls in the summer or winter months, the northern cities of the world
must accommodate different fasting times. Anchorage experiences about 22 hours
of daylight during the summer solstice; winter solstice brings very little
light — only about five hours. To work around such extremes, Muslims in
far-northern countries are given special permission to adopt the timetable of
Mecca. (Some Alaskan Muslims choose to follow the local sunrise and sunset.)
The Anchorage mosque has been a work in progress for
more than a decade.
For about 35 years, members rented retail space in a
strip mall. In 2008, after a fundraising effort, the group bought a plot of
land off one of the city’s main thoroughfares. And because paying interest on a
loan is forbidden in Islam, the mosque had to be built piece by piece as the
group collected enough money.
The community moved into the building in 2011.
Youssef Barbour, a physician and a spokesperson for the center, said the mosque
is nearly complete, with only the minaret and an elevator left to add.
Despite the bigger space, the building can feel
crowded on Fridays and during the holidays, when 700–800 people gather for
special Ramadan services.
That growth in the Muslim community is reflected in
the increasing availability of halal food in the city.
When Sajid Raza moved to Anchorage in 2016 to do
graduate research at the
University of Alaska Anchorage, he said it was hard to
find halal food, particularly meat.
“At the time, there were just a couple of
restaurants — like, one Indian restaurant and one pizza place,” said Raza, who
now lives in Bozeman, Montana. “There was one grocery store, and it was
bringing mostly frozen meat from Seattle, but it was quite expensive because of
transportation costs and stuff.”
Today, Anchorage is home to three halal specialty
shops and several restaurants with halal dishes on the menu. The local Walmart,
Safeway, and Costco stores also carry halal-certified options.
“That’s a remarkable development for the Muslim
community because that means that the halal is becoming more and more
mainstream throughout America,” Jones said. “Alaska being so remote, we may be
probably one of the last communities to get it.”
Still, certain ingredients remain difficult to find.
Alaska imports 95 percent of its food, and pandemic-related supply chain
disruptions continue to hinder the regular delivery of goods to the state.
“Most people, if they are from different parts of
the world, whether it’s Senegal or Pakistan, people bring those spices in,”
said Maleika Jones, who does the same when she visits her family in South
Carolina. “A lot of people that go back and visit their hometowns, they bring
the spices and things here.”
Stocking up on spices and other ingredients about a
month ahead of time is an important part of preparing for Ramadan in
Alaska.
Finding enough frozen halal meat is also important. A neighbor of the Jones
family hunts, killing each animal according to the Islamic law and ritual that
makes the meat halal. Recently, the neighbor shared halal caribou meat with
Maleika Jones.
Families will buy rice, lentils, flour, vegetables
for soup dishes, and dates — an ingredient that is likely found in every Muslim
home in Anchorage, despite cultural background. Medjool dates — the “big, fat,
gooey ones, the really good ones” — are becoming easier to find at Costco
during Ramadan, Barbour said. Eating dates is a traditional way to break the
fast.
Although Ramadan is a month of prayer and reflection,
it is also a joyful time for Muslim families, and iftar gatherings are a
highlight of the holiday. Before the
pandemic, Anchorage’s Muslim community met
nightly to break the fast over big potlucks.
“People think about food during the fasting day,” Barbour
said. “So food becomes like — you are thinking about what you are going to eat
today. People sometimes actually gain weight because of how much emphasis is on
food, but it is a nice season for enjoying a nice meal.”
During these potlucks, people fill their plates at
the buffet table. “Most people have no idea who brought what or what it is,”
Barbour said. “Everybody eats everything, and it’s just a real mishmash, which
is really awesome.”
Women in the community have also hosted smaller
gatherings at their homes once or twice a week. This year, Jones and her
daughter Shumailah are planning on making kebabs, roti, fruit with yogurt and a
large batch of potato and meat-filled samosas for their iftar gatherings.
“During Ramadan, that’s the time where people really
try to roll their sleeves up and bring out the best dishes,” Jones said.
With few
COVID-19 restrictions, the community is
looking forward to evening potlucks on Fridays and Saturdays.
“Everybody misses it, and everybody’s really excited to be
seeing each other again,” Barbour said. “Sharing food, that’s one thing that’s
just across pretty much every culture that brings people together. That’s the
common language, to sit down with your friends and community members. It’s a
very relaxed, very happy time. And we have really missed it.”
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