I had no idea what to expect when our friends Brian and
Claire invited us to the
Ma’in Hot Springs after frisbee practice one Friday
morning, although I had heard a few people mention Hammamat Ma’in as a
worthwhile day-trip destination since I arrived here in November. It turned out
to be a lovely place, a series of hot mineral springs and waterfalls nestled in
the verdant Wadi Zarqa Ma’in, close to the Dead Sea.
اضافة اعلان
It was a strange sensation to let a hot waterfall cascade
over my shoulders and to watch steam rise off the streams running on either
side of the walking path. It was a new experience for me, but people in the
area have been visiting these falls and thermal pools to relax and feel the
therapeutic muscle, joint and skin benefits of the hot mineral water since at
least the time of Herod the Great, and probably long before then.
People of the area have been visiting these falls and thermal pools to relax and feel the therapeutic muscle, joint and skin benefits of the hot mineral water since at least the time of Herod the Great, and probably long before then. (Photo: Zane Wolfang /Jordan News)
The day got off to a great start when Brian and Claire let
us in on one of their day trip traditions, which is stopping at Foron Rex
behind Sixth Circle for some fresh baked bread and American-style drip coffee,
a delicious Colombian blend from
Lweibdeh-based coffee roaster Bunni. The
Nabulsi cheese and za’atar sourdough manaqeesh was super scrumptious, and so
was the baguette (billed by Foron Rex as the best in Amman) and fresh labneh
jerashi I bought for the ride back later in the day.
We munched on our manaqeesh as we meandered southward on Route
40 to the Dead Sea road, admiring the sweeping views and pointing out sections
of the Jordan Trail from atop Amman hills as we made our way out of the city.
The springs are about 73 kilometers from the capital, with
much of the route we took slicing through lovely farmland in Balqa and the last
stretch running along the eastern shore of the
Dead Sea before a steep,
switchback climb up a newly renovated road into the mountains, snaking past
spectacular views of the arid desert landscape and the shimmering sea beyond
before plunging back down into the surprisingly lush wadi to reach the hot
springs.
(Photo: Zane Wolfang /Jordan News)
The public section of the wadi, which costs JD15 for
tourists and JD10 for citizens and residents of Jordan to access, has a thermal
pool and changing room reserved specifically for women, some public areas to
barbecue, a small
waterfall and pool in an area reserved for families, and then
a large, beautiful waterfall featuring terraced pools of water ranging from 30
to 35 degrees Celsius and a cave which functions as a natural sauna behind the
falls.
Right now is the perfect time to go – the water feels
amazing in contrast to the windy winter chill of Amman, and it has not yet
become prohibitively hot in the arid region south of
Madaba. I cannot imagine
the springs being enjoyable in the full heat of a Jordanian summer, but they
were perfect for February, especially with sore muscles after a week of intense
ultimate Frisbee practices.
(Photo: Zane Wolfang /Jordan News)
We spent some time soaking in the terraced pools, waited for
a turn to stand directly under the falls, and sat for a while in the sauna
cave, watching hot water gurgle directly out of fissures in the rocks. It was
an enjoyably egalitarian experience, and we mingled with
Jordanians, some
European tourists, and some visitors from Syria.
It was nice to see people from all walks of life relaxing
and enjoying nature together outside of the social and professional pressures
of city life. We could have stayed longer, but we had not brought a hookah or
anything to barbecue, and we wanted to leave with enough time to stop and catch
the sunset. We pulled over at a wide expanse of flat ground about halfway back
down the mountain to throw the Frisbee and watch a spectacular sunset over the
sea, and then made it back to Amman in time for dinner.
There are two other routes to the springs, which run through
Madaba, highlighting the fact that Ma’in is the perfect add-on to either a day
in Madaba or a Dead Sea trip. It could even serve as a nice side excursion en
route to the beaches and resorts of Aqaba.
(Photo: Ameer Khalifeh/Jordan News)
In addition to the public area, there is a swanky hotel and
spa in the wadi that offers a more luxurious experience and reserves some of
the most spectacular waterfalls for hotel guests. It would be quite feasible to
spend a day admiring the mosaics in Madaba and then drive to the Ma’in Hot
Springs Resort and Spa for a luxurious hotel stay, and it would also be easy
for budget travelers to book affordable lodging in Madaba and do a trip out to
Ma’in and the Dead Sea in a single day.
There are also a number of hotels along the coast of the
Dead Sea, and Ma’in is quickly and easily accessible from all of them,
particularly if you have a rental car. You probably want to bring flip-flops or
sandals, somewhat conservative swimwear and a towel, and if you want to stay
and enjoy the whole day, it would be smart to bring some snacks, water, and
maybe a nice book to read.
The Ma’in Hot Springs were a great escape from the city,
easily accessible from both Amman and Madaba and offered a unique, relaxing and
family-friendly experience.
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