Spring in Jordan
provides a short window of time when the weather is ideal nearly countrywide
for hikers to go out and enjoy everything Jordan has to offer. The north is
particularly gorgeous, lush and green, defying the expectations of travelers
who expect to see nothing but desert.
اضافة اعلان
Two weekends
ago, the hidden gem hikers visited Irbid for the first time, taking in the
scenery at
Umm Qais just one day before King Abdullah visited. The true hidden
gem of the trip, however, was a vantage point over the
Yarmouk River Gorge
featuring sweeping views of three countries, which we found with the help of a
local friend.
While some parts
of this trip would have certainly been easier with a car, Irbid is a great
destination for budget travelers from Amman because you can take the JETT bus
from Tabarbour station for about JD4 round trip.
Sign explaining the ruins of the Roman shops along the cardo at Umm Quais.
the bus ride
took about an hour, after which our friend Mohammad picked us up in downtown
Irbid and took us for a day of sightseeing. To get to the lookout point over
the Yarmouk River Gorge, you have to drive past Umm Qais for about 5km until
you reach a small border checkpoint and military base. While having a car does
make everything easier, everywhere we were visiting was affordable and
reachable by taxi.
While we elected
to drive through the checkpoint, many locals were hiking from that point on to
the lookout, along a small paved road surrounded by beautiful farms and olive
groves. There were also a few buses and some other cars heading to the vantage
point, which also featured walking trails, picnic areas, and fantastic views of
Lake Tiberias in Palestine and the Golan Heights in Syria.
Ruins of the Roman shops along the cardo at Umm Quais.
A short walk
down from the vantage point was a site called “the Cave of Jesus,” which was
well maintained but provided no information about what exactly Jesus was doing
at that particular cave. I believe local lore has it that Jesus slept in the
cave on the way to the ancient city of
Gadara, which is now called Umm Qais.
While exploring
the picnic area around the cave, we met a French couple who had climbed up from
the village of Al-Adassiyah, which is very close to the Palestinian border and
apparently can be reached via car by driving up the
Jordan River Valley.
Their route
caught us by surprise. We were so close to the border that we were not even
sure the village we were looking down at was inside Jordan, so we took a mental
note of the route with the caveat that local authorities may not approve of the
backcountry approach to the cave. The couple asked us how they should climb
back down, which was funny because we had come from the top of the hill in the
opposite direction and had no idea how to help them.
(Photo: Maggie Masse)
After a
beautiful springtime walk down to the cave past some onion fields and grassy
hills interspersed with trees and colorful wildflowers, we walked back up to
the car and drove back to Umm Qais, a spectacular ruin of a city dating back to
the third century BC with Greek,
Roman, Byzantian, Nabatean, early Islamic, and
Ottoman history.
Umm Qais costs
JD5 for foreigners and JD0.25 for Jordanians, and the ruins are amazing, with
well-preserved roads, Roman shops, an acropolis, an amphitheater, and a huge
network of water and military tunnels.
We spent about
two hours there, exploring at a leisurely pace and stopping for a coffee at the
café situated amid the ruins with lovely views of the surrounding countryside.
We did not see
everything, and we could easily have spent another hour or more exploring and
reading all of the interesting historical information.
After Umm Qais,
we went back to Mohammad’s house for some homemade
mansaf and iced karkade. I
cannot guarantee that your trip to Irbid will include mansaf, but I can
recommend it.
View of Lake Tiberias from Umm Qais.
Irbid is not a
tourist city per se, and Umm Qais is a bit outside of the urban area. It is one
of those cities that really opens up to you when you have a local friend to
tell you about some of the hometown history, point out some popular
restaurants, and generally help you navigate your itinerary.
The surrounding
countryside is beautiful, and I’m sure there are countless day hikes, cycling
trips, and historical destinations within reach.
If I get to go back, I
would like to do a barbecue near the Cave of Jesus and spend more time
exploring the Yarmouk River Gorge, which I suspect is even more of a hidden gem
than we got to experience on our first short trip there.
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