At a cotton gin in the San Joaquin Valley, in California, a
boxy machine helps to spray a fine mist containing billions of molecules of DNA
onto freshly cleaned Pima cotton.
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That DNA will act as a kind of minuscule bar code, nestling
amid the puffy fibers as they are shuttled to factories in India. There, the
cotton will be spun into yarn and woven into bedsheets, before landing on the
shelves of Costco stores in the United States. At any time, Costco can test for
the DNA’s presence to ensure that its American-grown cotton hasn’t been
replaced with cheaper materials — like cotton from the Xinjiang region of China,
which is banned in the US because of its ties to forced labor.
Amid growing concern about opacity and abuses in global
supply chains, companies and government officials are increasingly turning to
technologies like DNA tracking, artificial intelligence and blockchains to try
to trace raw materials from the source to the store.
Companies in the US are now subject to new rules that
require firms to prove their goods are made without forced labor, or face
having them seized at the border. US customs officials said in March that they
had already detained nearly $1 billion worth of shipments coming into the US
that were suspected of having some ties to Xinjiang. Products from the region
have been banned since June 2022.
Cotton being tested at Applied DNA Sciences to determine its
origins, at the Long Island High Technology Incubator in Stony Brook, NY on
March 10, 2023.
Customers are also demanding proof that expensive, high-end
products — like conflict-free diamonds, organic cotton, sushi-grade tuna, or
Manuka honey — are genuine, and produced in ethically and environmentally
sustainable ways.
That has forced a new reality on companies that have long
relied on a tangle of global factories to source their goods. More than ever
before, companies must be able to explain where their products really come
from.
The task may seem straightforward, but it can be
surprisingly tricky. That is because the international supply chains that
companies have built in recent decades to cut costs and diversify their product
offerings have grown astonishingly complex. Since 2000, the value of
intermediate goods used to make products that are traded internationally has
tripled, driven partly by China’s booming factories.
A large, multinational company may buy parts, materials or
services from thousands of suppliers around the world. One of the largest such
companies, Procter & Gamble, which owns brands like Tide, Crest and
Pampers, has nearly 50,000 direct suppliers. Each of those suppliers may, in
turn, rely on hundreds of other companies for the parts used to make its
product — and so on, for many levels up the supply chain.
Given these challenges, some companies are turning to
alternative methods, not all proven, to try to inspect their supply chains.
Some companies — like the one that sprays the DNA mist onto
cotton, Applied DNA Sciences — are using scientific processes to tag or test a
physical attribute of the good itself, to figure out where it has traveled on
its path from factories to consumer.
Applied DNA has used its synthetic DNA tags, each just a
billionth of the size of a grain of sugar, to track microcircuits produced for
the Department of Defense, trace cannabis supply chains to ensure the product’s
purity and even to mist robbers in Sweden who attempted to steal cash from
ATMs, leading to multiple arrests.
MeiLin Wan, the vice president for textiles at Applied DNA,
said the new regulations were creating a “tipping point for real transparency.”
“There definitely is a lot more interest,” she added.
The cotton industry was one of the earliest adopters of
tracing technologies, in part because of previous transgressions. In the
mid-2010s, Target, Walmart and Bed Bath & Beyond faced expensive product
recalls or lawsuits after the “Egyptian cotton” sheets they sold turned out to
have been made with cotton from elsewhere. A New York Times investigation last
year documented that the “organic cotton” industry was also rife with fraud.
In addition to the DNA mist it applies as a marker, Applied
DNA can figure out where cotton comes from by sequencing the DNA of the cotton
itself, or analyzing its isotopes, which are variations in the carbon, oxygen
and hydrogen atoms in the cotton. Differences in rainfall, latitude,
temperature, and soil conditions mean these atoms vary slightly across regions
of the world, allowing researchers to map where the cotton in a pair of socks or
bath towel has come from.
Other companies are using databases or artificial
intelligence to comb through vast supplier networks for distant links to banned
entities, or to detect unusual trade patterns that indicate fraud —
investigations that could take years to carry out without computing power.
Sayari, a corporate risk intelligence provider that has
developed a platform combining data from billions of public records issued
globally, is one of those companies. The service is now used by US customs agents
as well as private companies. On a recent Tuesday, Jessica Abell, the vice
president of solutions at Sayari, ran the supplier list of a major US retailer
through the platform and watched as dozens of tiny red flags appeared next to
the names of distant companies.
“We’re flagging not only the Chinese companies that are in
Xinjiang, but then we’re also automatically exploring their commercial networks
and flagging the companies that are directly connected to it,” Abell said. It
is up to the companies to decide what, if anything, to do about their exposure.
Studies have found that most companies have surprisingly
little visibility into the upper reaches of their supply chains, because they
lack either the resources or the incentives to investigate. In a 2022 survey by
McKinsey & Co., 45 percent of respondents said they had no visibility at
all into their supply chain beyond their immediate suppliers.
But staying in the dark is no longer feasible for companies,
particularly those in the US, after the congressionally imposed ban on
importing products from Xinjiang — where 100,000 ethnic minorities are presumed
by the US government to be working in conditions of forced labor — went into
effect last year.
Having a full picture of their supply chains can offer companies
other benefits, like helping them recall faulty products or reduce costs. The
information is increasingly needed to estimate how much carbon dioxide is
actually emitted in the production of a good, or to satisfy other government
rules that require products to be sourced from particular places — such as the
Biden administration’s new rules on electric vehicle tax credits.
Executives at these technology companies say they envision a
future, perhaps within the next decade, in which most supply chains are fully
traceable, an outgrowth of both tougher government regulations and the wider
adoption of technologies.
“It’s eminently doable,” said Leonardo Bonanni, the chief
executive of Source map, which has helped companies like the chocolate maker
Mars map out their supply chains. “If you want access to the US market for your
goods, it is a small price to pay, frankly.”
Others express skepticism about the limitations of these
technologies, including their cost. While Applied DNA’s technology, for
example, adds only 5 to 7 cents to the price of a finished piece of apparel,
that may be significant for retailers competing on thin margins.
And some express concerns about accuracy, including, for
example, databases that may flag companies incorrectly. Investigators still
need to be on the ground locally, they say, speaking with workers and remaining
alert for signs of forced or child labor that may not show up in digital
records.
Justin Dillon, chief executive of FRDM, a software company
that helps organizations map their supply chains, said there was “a lot of
angst, a lot of confusion” among companies trying to satisfy the government’s
new requirements.
Importers are “looking for boxes to check,” he said. “And
transparency in supply chains is as much an art as it is a science. It’s kind
of never done.”
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