Madi McCool was driving in downtown Philadelphia in the
summer of 2020 when she first spotted it: a reusable cloth mask that was
actually cute. It was baby blue, orange and white, with a distinctive, bold
daisy pattern. It caught her eye immediately.
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After some internet sleuthing, she tracked the mask down: It
was by Baggu, a brand known primarily for its reusable bags (as the name would
suggest). McCool, 25, got a set of three. Shortly thereafter, she bought her
first Baggu bag. Then another. And another. By her estimate, she now owns
around 100.
The collection is “giving me so much serotonin,” said
McCool, a grants and communications manager.
Today Baggu is enjoying something of a boom, especially
among Gen Z and courtesy of TikTok, which is teeming with self-described “Baggu
girlies,” bound together by their appreciation for the brand. Search “Baggu,”
and the hundreds of TikToks posts have collected over 130 million views.
Its ubiquity is not only online: Walk around a farmers
market in any major city and you might lose count of how many Baggu bags you
see. On nice days in public parks, Baggu’s prints proliferate on blankets,
coolers, towels,b and even tents,
instantly recognizable even without a flashy logo.
“Baggu started with one product and three people: me, my mom
and my childhood best friend,” Emily Sugihara, 40, Baggu’s founder and CEO,
wrote in an email. “After 15 years of slow and steady growth, we are a much
bigger team now, but still smaller than you might imagine.”
Sugihara, who lives in Santa Cruz, California, said she was
“always an entrepreneurial kid.” While studying economics at the University of
Michigan, she and a roommate ran “a successful tiny institution” selling
screen-printed T-shirts over the internet.
She went on to study fashion design at Parsons School of
Design in New York City, then briefly worked as an assistant designer at J.
Crew before going freelance. Together with her mother, Joan Hall Sugihara, and
her friend Ellen Vanderlaan, the trio released the signature Baggu bag in 2007
after noticing a market need for high-quality reusable bags that were
affordable and attractive. Their timing, she said, was lucky.
“There’s been many waves of people being conscious about
environmentalism,” she said, adding that 2007 “was another moment of a new generation
of people kind of waking up to the fact that we’re, as a society, making some
ridiculous choices.”
Initially, Sugihara said, the team looked into manufacturing
the bags in the San Diego area, where she grew up, but the quotes she received
priced one bag at $40, “which made it inaccessible for most people.” To keep
the low price point they wanted, local factories advised her that the bags
would have to be produced in China, so, she said, Baggu worked with a
manufacturing agent with a code of conduct and auditors to ensure that their
products were being made ethically. Baggu eventually shifted production to a
“family-owned factory group” in China that it has worked with for more than 10
years.
The year they launched, the fledgling brand had a course-altering
stroke of good luck when it got a one-page spread in the August 2007 issue of
Teen Vogue and an influx of orders. The company’s first customers were teenage
girls, who connected to the brand’s accessible price point ($8 at the time),
the ability to choose the colors that spoke to them and, perhaps most
important, its eco-conscious ethos.
The teen girls who formed the backbone of Baggu’s first
customer base may be all grown up, but Gen Z has taken their place. Now,
instead of a splashy Teen Vogue spread, there’s TikTok, where enthusiasts’
posts serve as user-generated marketing for the brand. It’s there that many are
discovering Baggu for the first time.
TikTok videos of the “what’s in my Baggu” variety are wildly
popular, fetching up to 2.7 million views, as fans pull out keys, wallets, hand
sanitizer, and even six Jimmy John’s subs. And often, there will be more Baggu
accessories inside: sunglasses cases, tablet sleeves, organizational pouches
and even more reusable bags, neatly folded and ready to be deployed.
As a company, Baggu doesn’t pay or partner with creators to
provide affiliate links or partnerships, a practice that’s common on TikTok and
Instagram. It will, however, occasionally send free products to the Baggu
faithful who are already sharing their dedication to the brand online. McCool
said she had received “maybe three” boxes of free Baggu products since she
started posting TikToks featuring the brand. When the brand asked to use one of
her videos in an ad, she received a Baggu of her choosing.
In some ways what these influencers are promoting is not
just the products themselves, cute as they find them, but a lifestyle of
reusable utopia that’s easy in use, exuberant in look.
“I am a baggu girly bc of you,” reads one comment on a
“what’s in my Baggu” video posted by Abby Benson-Schwallie, a 24-year-old
influencer in Nashville, Tennessee. “I literally bought a baggu wallet after
seeing you have one in one of your vids,” reads another. One product, the
medium nylon crescent bag, has reached cultlike status on the platform and is
often sold out.
There is the matter of price, too: Today, Baggu’s standard
reusable bag costs $14, a major factor in its popularity — and accessibility —
among a young generation of shoppers for whom cost is a major consideration
when making purchases.
Baggu was quickly picked up by retailers including the MoMA
Design Store in Manhattan.
The Baggu team has grown from three to around 90, a number
that Sugihara says is “ever shifting” and includes the staff at the three
brick-and-mortar locations the brand operates in New York and San Francisco.
Displays of Baggu loyalty are occasionally met with
resistance. When McCool posted a “Baggu of the day” video to TikTok, making a
selection out of a bin full of dozens of folded Baggu bags, some were quick to
criticize.
“Is this really more environmentally friendly?” one
commenter asked. Another speculated that owning so many reusable bags defeated
their purpose.
“I know that I have more bags than any person should have in
their entire life,” she said. “But I also know that I haven’t used a single-use
plastic bag in, like, three years.”
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