The fashion world
is always awash with scandals and dramas; whether a copycat outfit or a
designer faux pas, fashion publications and social media pages are never
without a story to sell. However, the current scandal facing the fashion
industry has more striking ethical repercussions than the usual in the gossip
mill.
اضافة اعلان
The case at hand
is
Kim Kardashian’s choice to wear the famous Marilyn Monroe John F. Kennedy
(JFK) “Happy Birthday” gown to the 2022 Met Gala, as loaned by Ripley’s, and
whether the historical dress was damaged.
The
Met Gala is
an annual celebration of fashion. Major designers showcase extraordinary
archival, current, and new pieces with popular celebrities as models. Over the
years, the Met Gala was host to some iconic fashion moments, including
Rihanna’s opulent yellow homage to China: Through the Looking Glass in 2015
(designed by Guo Pei), Cher’s 1974 feather Bob Mackie number, and Naomi
Campbell’s dazzling crystal-encrusted Versace gown in 1995.
Yet none of
these iconic looks have drawn as much press as the outfits seen at this year’s
gala, especially Kardashian’s usage of Monroe’s JFK birthday dress.
Two months have
already passed since the occasion, yet the divisiveness over Monroe’s gown
being worn by Kardashian continues to generate wide media coverage and debate.
The dress in
question was designed by newly graduated
Bob Mackie and Jean Louis. It
originally made its public debut in May 1962, when Monroe gave her iconic
performance of Happy Birthday to then US-president JFK at Madison Square
Garden.
Monroe’s breathy
vocals added a sultry air to the performance, while the infamous dress caught
the world’s attention thanks to its sheer illusion design and delicate crystal
appliqué, scandalizing audiences in the US and across the globe.
Over the years,
the dress has made its mark on the fashion markets, breaking auction records
over the past couple of decades. On October 27, 1999, the JFK birthday dress
sold at auction for the huge sum of nearly $1.27 million, making it the most
expensive dress ever sold at an auction back then, beating the previous record
held by the sale of one of Princess Diana’s gowns.
The JFK dress
later beat its own record, selling for a second time on November 17, 2016, for
$4.8 million, setting a world record.
Kim doesn’t do replicas
The dress is a
piece of fashion legacy, representing an iconic intersectional moment in
politics, fashion, and Hollywood history. Hence, we can say with no doubt that
Ripley’s and Kardashian were aware of the huge media reaction that would arise
with the loaning of the item and the amount of publicity both parties would
receive.
However, the
coverage garnered by the occasion may not be quite what Kardashian or Ripley’s
expected. The move received a significant level of backlash.
Most fashion
experts and fans have taken issue with the treatment of the gown; in recently
released photos by the Instagram page
@marilynmonroecollection, it is clear
that the dress now displays a number of significant pulls and tears, with a
number of crystals also appearing to be missing.
As a piece of
historical dress, conservators have surely taken significant efforts to keep it
in the excellent condition as seen prior to the gala. Expert conservators are
always required to preserve historical textiles, with their main task being to
slow down fabric degradation through careful cleaning, storage, and
preservation techniques.
Aged fabric is
incredibly delicate, and it is usually a blanket policy not to allow historical
garments to be rented out to celebrities. However, on this occasion, Ripley’s
offered to loan Kardashian the dress, according to their auction partner Darren
Julien (founder of Julien’s Auctions), who said, “Kim doesn’t do replicas”.
It is this blasé
attitude that upset so many — who felt that the integrity of the garment has
now been irreparably damaged due to the persuasive powers of those with fame
and money. As a piece of fashion history, it is easily arguable that the gown
should have remained on display and not in use to preserve its existence for
years to come.
Interestingly,
the scandal surrounding the incident is not solely related to the maintenance
and integrity of the item but also the legacy and treatment of Monroe herself.
As a woman who
Hollywood and the media widely exploited, many feel the re-exploitation of
Monroe’s personal goods in the name of publicity was a move made without
adequate consideration. Additionally, following the ceremony, Ripley’s gifted
Kardashian a jar containing Monroe’s hair, arguably reducing the legacy of a
monumental cultural icon down to the physical ownership of her items and body.
Wearing Monroe’s dress
brought up numerous ethical questions regarding her treatment and the dress’
cultural significance. Many fashion commentators will be eagerly watching to
see how celebrities and collections approach the issue in the future.
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