NEW YORK — The Footwear News
Achievement Awards, sometimes called the Oscars of shoes, shines a spotlight on
the industry’s top designers. But when singer Dua Lipa won for a Puma
collection in November, her frequent collaborator Billy Walsh bolted at the
sight of flashing cameras.
اضافة اعلان
“Billy Walsh’s five-seconds limit on the
red carpet,” Lipa said, as photographers shouted her name at Cipriani Wall
Street.
“More like two seconds,” Walsh, 40, added
safely from the sidelines.
Avoiding attention is a peculiar trait for
a man who collaborates with some of the biggest names in pop, including Lipa,
Post Malone, and The Weeknd, straddling the upper echelons of fashion and
music.
He has collaborated with Rihanna on a Fenty
collection with Puma and consulted Kanye West on video directors. As a fashion
stylist, he dressed The Weeknd in Givenchy for the Met gala and James Blake in
Yohji Yamamoto for awards shows.
“Not only is he one of the best songwriters, but he is a brilliant creative and fashion designer.”
But his biggest achievements are in
songwriting. His co-writing credits include “Sunflower” by Malone and Swae Lee,
and six tracks on West’s “Donda” album — and those are just counting his Grammy
nominations.
“Billy is part of a small group of people
in this industry that I consider to be like family,” Malone said by email.
Their shared writing catalog also includes the hits “I Fall Apart”, “Better
Now”, “Wow”, and “Circles”.
“Not only is he one of the best
songwriters, but he is a brilliant creative and fashion designer.”
Tough guy, sneaker-head, dancerOn a recent Tuesday afternoon, Walsh went
shopping at Dover Street Market, a retail temple in Manhattan where he often
goes for inspiration. “I would come here to do massive pulls for The Weeknd,”
he said. “I used to start on the top floor and work my way down.”
He still does. As he flipped through racks
of Raf Simons and Junya Watanabe on the seventh floor, Walsh recounted this
unorthodox rise in the recording and streetwear industries. “Fashion and music
are definitely interrelated, but I guess I don’t know too many people who have
succeeded in both,” he said. “I stay in the back and don’t need credit.”
Billy Walsh at his home in Los Angeles in
October 2022.
Dressed in an all-black “uniform” (T-shirt,
Prada nylon shorts, Alyx socks, and Nike Air Tuned Max sneakers), with his
signature shaved head and chrome-metal grills, he has the tough-guy appearance
of a post-apocalyptic British rude boy.
Walsh credits his dexterity to his
rough-and-tumble upbringing in the Jamaica Plain neighborhood of Boston. His
father, William, a folk musician who performed at local Irish pubs, encouraged
him to write poetry and dance. Walsh was also an obsessive sneaker head. “I
drove my mom crazy looking all over the city for the Adidas Equipment
Basketball shoes with the interchangeable, different-colored socks,” he said.
“Fashion and music are definitely interrelated, but I guess I don’t know too many people who have succeeded in both.”
Other addictions followed. He started
drinking at 11, often getting into after-school brawls until he sobered up a
decade later.
At 18, he headed to Los Angeles to study
dance at Loyola Marymount University, and he signed with an agent. But dance
gigs were few and far between, so he spent most of his 20s as a nightclub
promoter, working alongside his brother at Hollywood hot spots such as Emerson
Theater and Hyde, where he would party with a young Malone and future designers
such as Matthew M. Williams of Givenchy.
In 2011, choreographer Fatima Robinson,
whom he met at Eden, a Hollywood nightclub, encouraged him to stop dancing and
focus on poetry and design instead. “This woman literally saved my life,” he
said.
He quit auditioning and busied himself with
writing poetry and daydreaming about streetwear. He looked inside his sneaker
closet and began experimenting with Frankenstein combinations. One of the first
designs cobbled together was a white Nike Air Force One with a black-rubber
creeper sole. “I always wondered what a creeper would look like with certain
old sneakers from my childhood,” he said.
He wore his custom sneakers to the clubs,
which would get noticed by emerging VIPs such as Virgil Abloh and Travis Scott.
In 2014, with seed money from fellow party promoters, he and a friend started a
streetwear label called Mr. Completely, which re-imagined classic sneakers
including Adidas Sambas and Stan Smiths.
In October, he started a conceptual
streetwear label called Iswas with Keith Richardson, his creative partner at
Mr. Completely. The label sells one item: a pair of painter’s pants made from
Japanese selvage denim that costs $450.
Wearing many hats, Walsh said, affords him
creative freedom. “If Abel knows I am winning an award with Dua and doing my
own clothing line, he respects that I’m doing OK for myself,” he said,
referring to The Weeknd by his given name. “No one feels like you’re too
dependent.”
Back at Dover Street Market, Walsh went
from floor to floor, examining the clothing racks like an archaeologist at a
fresh dig. On the shoe floor, he picked up a pair of cloven-toed “tabi” boots
by Martin Margiela. “I appreciate what this guy does,” he said of the designer,
who, like himself, shuns the limelight in favor of letting his work speak for
itself.
After about two hours, he reached the Rose
Bakery, on the ground floor, took a seat and ordered an Earl Grey tea. As
ambient music played overhead, he reflected on his unusual journey. “My success
comes from artists recognizing that I see the creative process as sacred,
somewhat secret,” he said. “I am never the main focus, just as it should be.”
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