Last month, in one of her ubiquitous bathroom selfies,
Doja Cat lined her upper lids in a halo of rose-hued pigment, just below her
bleached brows. Cher was recently spotted in a sheer wash of shimmery burgundy
shadow.
Kylie Jenner and singer Rina Sawayama have also posted Instagram shots
with a sweep of scarlet eye makeup.
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Flashes of crimson are seemingly everywhere this season — swept
deftly under the waterline, piled high on the eyelid crease, and tapped
southward toward the cheekbone. Red eye makeup is so popular that Dior recently
released entire eye palettes and a mascara devoted to the shade. Makeup artist
Charlotte Tilbury introduced a ruby mascara and so, too, did Pat McGrath, hers
in the form of a vivid pink with red undertones.
To understand why, suddenly, red mascara, liner, and eye shadow
are in vogue, one has only to look to TikTok, where micro-trends thrive. There,
crying makeup — shiny-looking eyes, flushed cheeks, pouty lips — is one of the
newest fixations. In one crying girl makeup video,
Zoe Kim Kenealy offers a
now-viral tutorial on how to achieve the look of a good sob as she swipes red
shadow under, over, and around her eyes. Why? Because, as she puts it, “you
know how we look good when we cry?”
Similarly, cold girl makeup, with an emphasis on pinkish and
reddish tones around the eyes, nose, and lips, is going around. It is about
romanticizing being outside in the cold, sans high winds, and runny noses.
Think apres-ski, snow bunny makeup.
Red eye makeup and blush placed prominently around the eyes also
have links to Asian beauty culture. Under-eye blush has been popular in Japan
for decades and linked to style subcultures and
neighborhoods like Harajuku.
But the look dates back much further.
“In China, during the Tang dynasty, red rouge was placed over
the cheeks and up onto the eyes, creating a rosy-toned eye shadow,” said Erin
Parsons, a makeup artist who creates popular online beauty history content. She
noted that the hue continued to be used in cosmetics for centuries, and even
today within the Chinese opera.
As for the red Dior mascara, Peter Philips, the creative and
image director of Christian Dior Makeup, was inspired by demand for red eye
shadow in Asia. At the beginning of the pandemic, a single Bordeaux red eye
shadow was a source of curiosity at the company. There was talk of its
popularity, and there were calls for more brick shades.
“I was like: ‘Why? What’s the story behind it?’ ” Philips said.
“And they said: ‘Well, it’s mostly young girls. They are inspired by their
favorite characters in soap operas. There’s always drama, and there’s always a
broken heart and their eyes are red.’ ” Philips credits the rise of red makeup
as part manga culture combined with soap series, and the fact that whatever
happens in the Korean beauty scene usually trickles down to Western culture.
“It made red eye makeup more
acceptable and more mainstream,”
Philips said.
Red around the eyes can be a scary concept, but many makeup
artists say that, tonally, the color is flattering and complementary to most
eye shades. “It pops the white of your eye, which then makes the eye color pop
even more,” Tilbury said. “All red tones will flatter and enhance the color of
blue eyes, green eyes, and will even find the golden light in brown eyes.” Her
tip for wearing red tones without getting too bright is to choose a bronze or
chocolaty hue with a strong red undertone.
“You’re not going to feel freaky, like you’re wearing blue or green
shadow, but you’re still wearing something that is going to give you eye
brightening and pump and pop the color of your eyes,” she said.
But should you want to go bold, there is no easier shade to play
with.
“I love red as depth, in place of, say, a brown neutral you
would use to define a crease,” Parsons said. “Use a matte red to define the
shape and bone structure, then add red metallic shimmer on the lid where the
light will hit and sparkle.” There are many ways to wear red, she added, but
this technique can suit someone who is new to using the color beyond cheeks and
lips.
Another way to experiment with unadulterated vermilion on the
eyes is to coordinate your entire makeup look. Philips recommended choosing a
bold red lipstick, then finding a matching shade for your eyes. “You know, you
play and you mix and match and you make it your own,” he said.
He also suggested adding a
brilliant blue to make the already
bold hue stand out even more. “Blue lashes with an orangy lava kind of red eye
really stands out, and it’s really amazing,” he said. “If you want to play with
red, you have to contrast it. You can also start working with green. It depends
on how far you want to go.”
For Parsons and Tilbury, the 1960s and ’70s are a reference
point for red-eye makeup. Powdery cerise matte colors were common in that era.
“In modern makeup, we don’t really see red eye shadow hit the
mainstream until the mid ’60s, with the launch of Barbara Hulanicki’s Biba,”
Parsons said, referring to the London youthquake label of the ’60s and early
’70s. She has one of the original Biba palettes, she said, with reds, teals,
and golds.
Tilbury likes “that bold ’70s look where you use strong pinks
and reds around the eye and onto the cheekbone. It’s
incredibly pretty and
still much more of an editorial kind of statement.”
“Really,” Parsons said, “anyone can wear red anywhere on the
face, depending on how comfortable or creative one is.”
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