AMMAN — Kohl
eyeliner is considered an integral part of the
Arab beauty tradition. With
mentions in religious text, and usages spanning cultures and genders, kohl use
is deeply ingrained into the
Middle Eastern consciousness.
اضافة اعلان
Dark-rimmed and
mysterious eyes is the first image that pops to mind when one evokes “Arabian
Beauty”. This dark and smoky look has traditionally been achieved with kohl.
From South Asia to the Middle East to Africa, this cosmetic powder has made its
way into countless cultures.
(Photo: Shutterstock)
Here is a list of
things to know about kohl, and how this ancient cosmetic product managed to
maintain its relevance in modern makeup.
Kohl vs. eyeliner – what is the difference?
This question may not be easy to answer. Kohl became synonymous with
eyeliner in Arabic in recent years, despite the two being entirely different
things.
Eyeliner can come
in liquid, pencil, or gel form, and is used to line the eyes to achieve an
aesthetic effect. Kohl can be more accurately described as an eye cosmetic; it
can be used to line the eyes and darken the lashes and eyebrows. Because of all
these uses, calling kohl simply an eyeliner would not necessarily be accurate.
The aesthetic
difference between the two is also clear. Due to its powdered form, kohl can be
used for a more diffused, smoky look.
Eyeliner, on the other hand, distributes
a more concentrated pigment where it is applied.
Kohl pencils, yay or nay?
This eye cosmetic typically comes in the form of loose powder stored in a
jar and placed on the waterline with an applicator rod. Many companies have
promised that the same effect can be achieved by using a kohl pencil. This is
likely to avoid the mess and fallout of the more traditional application
method.
(Photo: Flicker)
But with that
added convenience comes a caveat: much of the pigmentation and smoky effect
will be lost by changing the texture from powder to pencil. Brands will also
often label their standard colored eyeliner pencils as “kohl” liners, despite
not possessing the qualities that would classify them as kohl.
Be wary of lead in your kohl
Traditionally kohl is made using lead sulfide in order to give it that
intense black color. But as modern medicine and sciences progressed, research
began to show that lead poisoning was a growing concern, particularly when used
in cosmetic products.
In the US, the
FDA has begun to crack down on lead in cosmetics; Jordan has yet to catch up. While
many have opted to replace the more harmful elements with safe alternatives, it
is essential that you make sure you are purchasing your kohl from a reputable
source, to ensure your health.
Medicinal qualities?
Whether kohl has any medicinal qualities is a highly contentious subject.
Some claim that the powder has UV blocking properties and protects the eyes
from the harmful
desert sun. They also claim that it is beneficial to overall
eye health.
While there is no
conclusive evidence that kohl provides any substantial UV protection, some
theorize that applying a dark powder to the eye area does help prevent the
glare from the sun from being too intense, thus decreasing the need for
squinting. The same logic is used when American football players put black
streaks under their eyes.
Either way, do not
ditch sunglasses and SPF in favor of a smoky eye in hopes it can have the same
effect.
Application process
The form you choose for your kohl to come in will largely affect the
application style and the ease of application.
Traditional
powdered kohl typically comes in a small jar with a metal rod attached to the
lid. The rod is dipped in the powder and the powder clinging to it is applied
to the lower and upper lash lines. The largest difficulty one may face with
this application is minor excess fallout, but this can be avoided by tapping
off any excess product from the rod back into the jar.
(Photo: Shutterstock)
Traditionally kohl
is applied to the waterline, but you may choose to forego this for a multitude
of reasons. For some, any cosmetic product on the waterline causes irritation,
and loose powder may exacerbate the problem. Dark colors on the waterline may
also make the eye appear smaller, which may not be desired by those looking for
a more doe-eyed look. But for those looking for a smoky, sultry look, and for
those with eyes that can handle loose powder, a waterline darkened by kohl is
the way to go.
When using kohl in its
pencil form (as previously mentioned, it is debatable if this can even be
considered kohl at all), the application is nearly identical to that of a
regular eyeliner pencil. The main difference is that kohl pencils tend to
smudge more easily, and are not as well suited for precise application. They
are better for a more diffused and smoky look without the added disadvantage of
fallout.
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