In 1978, while defending her three-year streak as the US. Open
champion, Chris Evert lost her gold diamond bracelet in the middle of the
match.
“When I competed, I wanted to wear something that gave me
confidence and empowered me both as a woman and an athlete,” Evert, who won 18
major singles titles in her career, wrote in an email interview. “My diamond
line bracelet did that for me. It was a nod to my personal style, too.”
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Evert asked officials to stop play so she could find it.
“I think everyone was confused in the stands because I was
walking around the court searching for something,” she wrote.
Evert went on to win the match. In a postgame interview,
reporters asked her what she had dropped.
“‘Oh, that was my tennis bracelet,’” she recalled saying. “From
that point on, it just seemed that the tennis bracelet began to take on a life
of its own.”
The tennis bracelet was once known as the “line bracelet”: a
single-strand diamond bracelet distinguished by its straight, sparkly row of
diamonds. The traditional line bracelet is set with four discreet prongs (the
metal fingers that hold each stone in place), one on each corner of the
diamond. This setting allows diamonds to shine as brightly as possible.
“But now people have reinterpreted it. Now people refer to any
diamond bracelet as a tennis bracelet in the various different settings,” said
Elizabeth Doyle, a board member of the American Society of Jewelry Historians.
She added that today’s understanding of tennis bracelets accounts for a variety
of settings, without strict guidelines.
The tennis bracelet was once known as the “line bracelet”: a single-strand diamond bracelet distinguished by its straight, sparkly row of diamonds.
Doyle, who is also a founder of Doyle & Doyle, an antique
and vintage jewelry boutique in New York City, said the tennis bracelet has
long been a popular item.
“But what I’ve noticed is the stacking and layering, mixing and
matching different colors or less important stones in with the diamonds,” she
said. “It doesn’t have to be so serious.”
Monica Rich Kosann, a Connecticut-based jewelry designer who in
August 2022 launched a line of tennis bracelets with Evert, echoed this
sentiment in a phone interview.
“I do think a woman would probably wear her tennis bracelet by
itself. I remember my mom having a tennis bracelet, and I remember she wore
that with her watch and that’s what she wore,” Kosann said. “Whereas now, my
daughters, they wear it every day. They never take it off, and they mix it in
with all their other bracelets, and it’s just become another layer on your
wrist.”
Her collection features an emerald that pays homage to the US
Open’s former green court, with a diamond droplet of sweat to represent, as
Evert described to Kosann, “the perspiration of competition.”
Roxanne Assoulin’s sparkling iterations are also designed for
everyday wear. In 2020, Assoulin, a longtime jewelry designer, began craving a
casual version of the diamond tennis bracelet she wore in the late ’70s (and
later disassembled to make earrings).
“I didn’t want them to be big and flashy,” she said. “I wanted
them to be really small and fine and delicate.”
When Assoulin’s son asked her about a tennis bracelet for his
wife, she began to wonder, “Does it have to be real?” Her Tennis on the Rox
bracelets are made of cubic zirconia, cost less than $200 and are designed to
be stacked.
For those who may just be discovering the tennis bracelet and
looking for a more traditional design, the Last Line’s petite white diamond
bracelet is a miniature nod to the classic. Or, for something less on the nose,
Nakard by Nak Armstrong’s series of tennis bracelets are made of tiled onyx,
scalloped opals and scale-shaped labradorite, with each stone defined by a
prominent black, rhodium-finished frame. For the maximalists, Mateo makes eye
candy tennis bracelets out of box-linked rainbow sapphires, as well as pink
sapphires in buttercup settings. And for those who tend toward a Phoebe
Philo-esque style of unfussy luxury, Dorsey offers a beautiful single strand of
lab-grown white sapphire for $240.
Diamond bracelets, in the broader sense, have been popular since
the Georgian Era; line bracelets have been around since the art deco era, and
styled casually with jeans or on the court since the ’70s — at least if you are
Chris Evert.
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