MSCHF, the creative collective responsible for the Big Red
Boots that clomped across New York Fashion Week in February, is thinking
smaller for its next accessory release. A lot smaller.
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The group plans to unveil its Microscopic Handbag, a speck
like rendition of Louis Vuitton’s OnTheGo tote. The bag measures 657 by 222 by
700 micrometers, making it smaller than a grain of sea salt and narrow enough
to pass through the eye of a needle.
From afar, the fluorescent green bag looks like a radioactive
poppy seed or a fragment of a sprinkle. Only when it is magnified are its
translucent handles and Louis Vuitton monogram clearly visible. This is not the
kind of tote bag that can be filled up with vegetables at the farmers’ market:
At most, it could be used to carry around a platelet or two.
A commentary on luxury handbags
Kevin Wiesner, the chief creative officer of MSCHF,
positioned the bag as a commentary on the impracticality of ever-shrinking
luxury handbags. “I think ‘bag’ is a funny object because it derives from
something rigorously functional,” he said in an interview. “But it has
basically become jewelry.”
He said that MSCHF aimed to extend that trend to its logical
conclusion by stripping away all of the bag’s utility, leaving nothing but a
brand signifier. “It is the final word in bag miniaturization,” MSCHF said in a
statement.
The bag will be sold this month as a lot in Just Phriends,
an auction organized by Sarah Andelman, the former creative director of the
Paris boutique Colette, which closed in 2017, and Joopiter, the auction house
founded by Pharrell Williams.
Wiesner said that MSCHF had not asked for permission to use Louis
Vuitton’s logo or design, despite the fact that Williams was recently named
men’s designer for the luxury brand. “We are big in the ‘ask forgiveness, not
permission’ school,” Wiesner said. (MSCHF settled a Nike lawsuit in 2021, and a
Vans trademark suit is under appeal in federal court.)
Big hats, small bags
But he noted that Williams had shown a fondness for oddly
sized objects: “Pharrell loves big hats, so we made him an incredibly small
bag.”
Keeping up with the anticsThis is all in keeping with MSCHF’s history of provocative
antics. Officially founded in Brooklyn in 2019 by Wiesner, Gabriel Whaley,
Daniel Greenberg, Stephen Tetreault and Lukas Bentel, the collective has long
leveraged parody and controversy to comment on the absurdities of consumer
culture.
In an undated image provided by MSCHF, the
Microscopic Handbag by MSCHF. MSCHF said it selected Louis Vuitton’s OnTheGo
tote for replication because the bag’s design — a simple rectangle with a
prominent logo — could be reproduced legibly at a small scale. (NYTimes)
Its drops have included $76,000 “Birkinstock” sandals made
from Birkin bags (released with the blessing of neither Birkenstock nor Hermès)
and a pair of “Jesus Shoes,” or customized Nike Air Max 97s containing holy
water from the Jordan River.
If those projects allowed MSCHF to poke fun at sneaker
culture and organized religion, the microscopic bag trains the brand’s gimlet
eye on the luxury handbag market.
When it comes to handbags, size matters. Consider the
“ludicrously capacious” Burberry bag considered a faux pas in “Succession.” Or
the teensy Valentino tote that Lizzo carried from the American Music Awards red
carpet into the meme stratosphere, or the buzzy micro bag that Jacquemus
debuted at Paris Fashion Week in 2019.
And although luxury bags are considered desirable in part
because some retain their value, new “it” bags are anointed at a dizzying pace
— from more minimal luxury offerings like Prada’s mini Cleo and Bottega
Veneta’s “candy”-size Jodie to funkier statement bags like Puppets and Puppets’
cookie bag and Simone Rocha’s micro egg.
A bag made by biotechnology
MSCHF had been discussing the idea of a miniature handbag
for several months when Whaley brought the idea to Andelman during a visit to
Paris. She jumped at the chance to offer a less obvious bag than the ones
typically available at auction. “Christie’s and Sotheby’s, they have these
Hermès bags,” Andelman said. “It’s become so usual, which is scary for me.”
MSCHF approached several industrial manufacturers that
specialize in biotechnology, which Wiesner said they found through a
combination of asking around and Google. Many said no.
The whole process was an exercise in persuasion, Wiesner
recalled, “because you’re going into a production chain that makes stents and
asking them to make a sculpture.” Eventually, they got a yes from a
manufacturer that he declined to name.
The bag was created out of resin through a process called
two-photon polymerization, a kind of 3D printing for microscopic objects. The
OnTheGo style was chosen because its design — a simple rectangle with a
prominent logo — could be reproduced legibly at such a small scale, Wiesner
said. Its bright color and slight translucence are intended to make it more
visible when lit from below on a microscope slide. (According to MSCHF, the bag
will be sold in a sealed gel case premounted beneath a microscope with a
digital display.)
So small, some were lost
When samples of the bag arrived a few months ago, they were
so small that Wiesner said the team lost some of them. But at least one bag
that survived will be on display later this month, affixed beneath its
microscope, during Men’s Fashion Week in Paris.
On June 19, it will be auctioned off online to a buyer who
Wiesner hopes will not treat it with too much reverence. “I almost hope
somebody eats it,” he said.
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