Clara Perlmutter decided recently to shave her head and document it on the
platform after seeing the Dyson Airwrap go viral, with people curling and
coifing their long shocks of hair.
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“I made a deal with myself that I was going to
either learn how to do hair really well so I could make it a final touch to all
my outfits, or buzz my head,” she said. In late January, when Perlmutter, 23,
was on set at a photoshoot, she watched as a hairdresser intricately styled a
model’s hair.
“At that moment, I realized I didn’t have the
emotional energy to go all-out with my hair,” she said. “I went home and told
my boyfriend, ‘I want you to shave my head.’ We went ham with the clippers and
filmed the journey for my TikTok.”
Perlmutter instantly embraced the look for its ease
and the fact that her hair is now “one less thing to worry about.” It also
suits her style. “I’m into that 1990s and 2000s dystopian-future aesthetic, and
I’m really into the way the bald head makes every outfit fit that vibe,” she
said. Lately, she has been wearing puffy headbands over her buzzed head.
There is plenty of evidence that the shaved head is
the first trendy cut of 2022. Iris Law, Demi Lovato, and Saweetie have lopped
off their manes. Actor Jordan Alexander, of the “
Gossip Girl” reboot, and model
Slick Woods have made it their style signatures.
Camille Rogers, who works in marketing proudly wears
a shaved head. “Every time I shave my head, I feel like a weight has been
lifted,” Rogers said. “A new wave of confidence washes over me.” There is
something about that “freshly buzzed feeling … (that) just hits.”
Rita Melssen, an art director and stylist, shaved
her head on a whim and now changes the color from icy white to light pink as it
grows out. She also experiments with vintage caps and scarves to change up the
look.
“I walk through the world very differently with a
shaved head as opposed to a head of long curly hair like I had before,”
Melssen, 29, said. “I feel more powerful and graceful. There is a purity and a
fierceness to it. It’s like I am peeling back a layer so that you can see a
deeper part of me.”
“Also, I can get ready so fast now, it’s a
game-changer.”
For some people who have been contemplating the look
for a while, 2022 felt right. “I still feel butterflies when I look into the
mirror,” said Emma Fridsell, 23, a fashion influencer who traded a pixie for a
buzz cut. “I feel stronger with my head shaved. I walk a little bit taller. I
hope that I can also inspire others to not feel the need to fit into a box. I
have struggled with that, and this haircut finally allowed me to break free
once and for all.”
Joseph Charles Viola, 26, who works in fashion, also
took to the clippers. “Life was weighing me down, and I thought my hair could
take some of that weight off for a bit,” he said.
Why do it now?
Tumultuous times often lead
to extreme self-expression through beauty. “It’s about taking ownership of your
identity and allowing you to control at least one aspect of what’s going on
around you,” said Rachael Gibson, who charts the history of hair on her
Instagram account Thehairhistorian.
“I think there’s probably also a sense of why the
hell not,” she added. “If you can’t shave your hair off while we’re living
through what we’ve lived through, when are you going to do it?”
On social media, subcultures like dark academia and
cottagecore thrived during the pandemic. Rising out of such communities are
threads of goth, emo, and punk in which the shaved head stands in as an
aesthetic signifier.
“I think we’re living in a time where pretty much
anything goes,” Gibson said. “You can be a baby goth one day and some kind of
Y2K babe wearing a Juicy tracksuit the next.”
“Conversely,” she continued, “perhaps there’s
something to be said for a shaved head being the ultimate sign of commitment to
a look. A shaved head for a woman still has the power to shock.”
The shaved head has history, with roots in mourning,
religion, rebellion, and even ostracism. That history is also what makes the
cut empowering and provoking all at once.
“Hair shaving can also be a type of discipline and
uniformity for soldiers, or purity for Hindu priests, because hair is
associated with sexuality,” said Valerie Steele, director of the museum at the
Fashion Institute of Technology.
“Now,” Steele said, “a shaved head is increasingly
perceived as strength and gender equality.”
1For others, the look lets them experience
empowerment in a new way.
“We tend to be so attached to our hair, as if that’s
the only thing that makes us a woman or feminine, and that’s far from the
truth,” said actor and author Samantina Zenon, who swapped her natural Afro for
a smoothed head. “Being a woman is more than just looking like one. We have so
many layers to us, and while some may wear their crown proudly, we also carry a
lot of burdens. As I grow older, it becomes vital for me to always walk in my
power regardless of my appearance.”
The variations
For all of its nakedness,
the shaved head has versatility. You can shave it with a razor, clipper it to a
short stubble, or opt to leave a little length on top so that you have a pixie,
more or less.
“When you clipper it down to a short stubble, it
will allow your face to retain its shape,” said
Devin Toth, a hairstylist at
Salon SCK in Manhattan. “In other words, your head won’t become an extension of
your forehead. When there’s a little stubble, you can also do bright, geometric
hair color.”
The turn toward do-it-yourself beauty that emerged
during the pandemic means, of course, that this is a cut that can be
accomplished at home. You will need a good set of clippers and a friend on
standby to get the bits at the back.
Toth advises cutting it short with scissors first,
then buzzing it on a long guard, then on a short guard, and then using a razor.
“This is for two reasons,” he said. “First, you can always decide mid-process
not to go any shorter, especially once you start seeing your head shape.
Second, you don’t want to hurt yourself. Doing a short guard on long hair will
cause your hair to get tangled and pulled inside of the buzzer.”
There is a lot to be said about a cut that gives you
a fresh start and still maintains a world of expression. For some of the newly
shorn, like Zenon, the cut is one they plan to keep for the long run.
“I don’t think I will ever want to go back to growing my
hair again,” she said.
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